How to make a roof with your own hands? Do-it-yourself house roof: instructions from A to Z How to build a house roof with your own hands.

A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces (slopes) of a rectangular shape.

The gable roof frame, due to its design features, ideally combines ease of installation and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof a practical and rational solution for private and commercial housing construction.

In this article, we will consider how to make a gable roof truss system with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to installation of a Mauerlat and a crate under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, drawings and photos.

The popularity of the roof with a house is due to a number of advantages:

• design variability;
• simplicity in calculations;
• natural flow of water;
• the integrity of the design reduces the likelihood of leaks;
• profitability;
• preservation of the useful area of ​​​​the attic or the possibility of arranging an attic;
• high maintainability;
• strength and wear resistance.

Types of gable roof

The installation of a gable roof truss system depends primarily on its design.

There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):

The most common version of the roof device due to its simplicity and reliability. Due to the symmetry, a uniform distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and the Mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation do not affect the choice of material.

The cross section of the beam makes it possible to provide a margin of bearing capacity. There is no possibility of bending the rafters. Supports and spacers can be placed almost anywhere.

A clear drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full-fledged attic floor. Due to sharp corners, “blind” zones appear that are unsuitable for use.

The device of one angle more than 45° leads to a decrease in the amount of unused area. There is an opportunity to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for the calculation are increasing, because. the load on the walls and foundation will be distributed unevenly.

This roof design allows you to equip a full-fledged second floor under the roof.

Naturally, a simple gable truss roof differs from a broken one, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.

The design of the gable roof truss system

Building a roof of any complexity with your own hands requires knowledge of the purpose of the main structural elements.

The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.

• Mauerlat. Designed to distribute the load from the truss system to the load-bearing walls of the building. For the arrangement of the Mauerlat, a beam of durable wood is selected. Preferably larch, pine, oak. The cross section of the beam depends on its type - solid or glued, as well as on the estimated age of the structure. The most popular sizes are 100x100, 150x150 mm.

  Advice. For a metal truss system, the Mauerlat must also be metal. For example, a channel or an I-profile.

• rafter leg. The main element of the system. For the manufacture of rafter legs, a durable beam or log is used. The legs connected from above form a farm.

The silhouette of the roof truss determines the appearance of the structure. Examples of farms in the photo.

Rafter parameters are important. They will be discussed below.

• puff- connects the rafter legs and gives them rigidity.

• Run:

• Skate run, mounted at the junction of one rafter to another. In the future, a roof ridge will be installed on it.

• Side runs, they provide the truss with additional rigidity. Their number and size depend on the load on the system.

• Rafter rack- vertically located beam. It also takes on part of the load from the weight of the roof. In a simple gable roof, it is usually located in the center. With a significant span width - in the center and on the sides. In an asymmetrical gable roof - the installation location depends on the length of the rafters. With a sloping roof and the arrangement of one room in the attic attic, the racks are located on the sides, leaving free space for movement. If there are supposed to be two rooms, the racks are located in the center and on the sides.

The location of the rack depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.

• Strut. Serves as a support for the rack.

Advice. Installing the strut at an angle of 45° significantly reduces the risk of deformation from wind and snow loads.

In regions with a significant wind and snow load, not only longitudinal struts are installed (located in the same plane with the rafter pair), but also diagonal ones.

• Sill. Its purpose is to serve as a support for the rack and a place for attaching the strut.

• crate. It is intended for movement during construction works and fixing of roofing material. It is installed perpendicular to the rafter legs.

Advice. An important purpose of the crate is to redistribute the load from the roofing material to the truss system.

The presence of a drawing and a diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.

Advice. Be sure to add data on the passage of the ventilation shaft and chimney to the scheme of the gable roof truss system.

The technology of their device is determined by the type of roof.

The choice of material for rafters

When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose high-quality wood without damage and wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, Mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.

For boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. Wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will enhance its properties.

Advice. The length of the knot should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the timber.

Calculation of the truss system of a gable roof

The calculation of material parameters is an important stage, so we present the calculation algorithm step by step.

It is important to know: the entire truss system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have a different shape, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and the amount of materials for each. After calculations, summarize the data.

1. Calculation of the load on the truss system

The load on the rafters can be of three types:

• Permanent loads. Their action will always be felt by the truss system. Such loads include the weight of the roof, lathing, insulation, films, additional elements of the roof, finishing materials for. The weight of the roof is the sum of the weight of all its constituent elements, it is easier to take into account such a load. On average, the value of the constant load on the rafters is 40-45 kg / sq.m.

Advice. To make the margin of safety for the rafter system, it is better to add 10% to the calculation.

For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq.m. presented in the table

Advice. It is desirable that the weight of the roofing material per 1 sq.m. roof area, did not exceed 50 kg.

• Variable loads. They operate at different times and with different strengths. Such loads include: wind load and its strength, snow load, precipitation intensity.

In fact, the roof slope is like a sail and, given the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.

The calculation is carried out according to the formula: wind load is equal to the indicator for the region, multiplied by the correction factor. These indicators are contained in the SNiP "Loads and Impacts" and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, a private house surrounded by high-rise buildings has fewer loads. A detached country house or cottage is experiencing increased wind loads.

2. Calculation of the snow load on the roof

The calculation of the roof for snow load is carried out according to the formula:

The total snow load is equal to the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.

The weight of snow, which falls on 1 sq.m. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg / sq.m.

The coefficients showing the dependence on the slope angle are shown in the photo.

Nuance. With a slope angle of more than 60 ° snow load does not affect the calculation. Since the snow will quickly slide down and will not affect the strength of the timber.

• Special loads. Accounting for such loads is carried out in places with high seismic activity, tornadoes, storm winds. For our latitudes, it is enough to make a safety margin.

Nuance. The simultaneous action of many factors causes a synergy effect. This is worth considering (see photo).

Assessment of the condition and bearing capacity of walls and foundations

It should be borne in mind that the roof has a significant weight that can harm the rest of the building.

Determination of the roof configuration:

• simple symmetrical;
• simple asymmetric;
• broken line.

The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the number of roof trusses and truss elements is needed to create the necessary margin of safety.

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward their own requirements.

• soft roof - 5-20°;
• metal tile, slate, corrugated board, ondulin - 20-45 °.

It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the overall cost of work.

Nuance. The minimum slope angle of a gable roof must be at least 5°.

5. Calculation of the pitch of the rafters

The pitch of the rafters of a gable roof for residential buildings can be from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the slope by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per slope. For the second number, you need to multiply by 2.

The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a dwelling under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.

Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.

Parameter "c" is the hypotenuse of the triangle.

Advice. To the value obtained, you need to add 60-70 cm for sawing and taking the rafter leg out of the wall.

It should be noted that the maximum length of the beam is 6 r.m. Therefore, if necessary, the timber for the rafters can be spliced ​​(building, joining, joining).

The method of splicing the rafters along the length is shown in the photo.

The width of the rafters for the roof depends on the distance between opposite load-bearing walls.

7. Calculation of the section of the rafters

The cross section of the gable roof rafters depends on several factors:

• load, we already wrote about it;

• type of material used. For example, a log can withstand one load, a beam - another, a glued beam - a third;

• rafter leg length;

• type of wood used in construction;

• distance between rafters (rafter pitch).

You can determine the cross section of the beam for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters, using the data below.

Rafter cross section - table

Advice. The larger the installation step of the rafters, the greater the load on one rafter pair. So, the cross section of the rafters needs to be increased.

Dimensions of lumber (beams and boards) for a gable truss system:

• thickness (section) of the Mauerlat - 10x10 or 15x15 cm;

• the thickness of the rafter leg and puffs is 10x15 or 10x20 cm. Sometimes a beam of 5x15 or 5x20 cm is used;

• run and strut - 5x15 or 5x20. Depending on the width of the leg;

• rack - 10x10 or 10x15;

• bed - 5x10 or 5x15 (depending on the width of the rack);

• thickness (section) of the roof lathing - 2x10, 2.5x15 (depending on the roofing material).

Types of gable roof truss system

For the considered roof structure, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.

Consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.

hanging rafters

They are used with a roof width of not more than 6 r.m. The installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the legs to the load-bearing wall and the ridge run. The design of hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. Hanging rafters with a puff installed between the legs can reduce its influence. The puff in the truss system can be wooden or metal. Often puffs are placed at the bottom, then they play the role of load-bearing beams. It is important to ensure that the puff is securely fastened to the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.

Advice.
The higher the puff is located, the greater the strength it should have.
If the puff is not installed, the load-bearing walls can simply “disperse” from the pressure created by the truss system.

Rafters

They are used in the arrangement of roofs of any size. The design of the layered rafters provides for the presence of a bed and a rack. Lying lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs seem to be inclined towards each other and are supported by the rack. The rafter legs of the layered system work only for bending. And the ease of installation also tips the scales in their favor. The only downside is the stand.

Combined

Due to the fact that modern roofs are distinguished by a large variety of shapes and complexity of configurations, a combined type of truss system is used.

After choosing the type of truss system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Record the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each element of the roof.

Installation of a gable roof truss system

After the gable roof rafters are calculated, installation can begin. We break the process into stages and give a description of each of them. You will get a kind of step-by-step instruction containing additional information on each stage.

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.

In log cabins, the role of the Mauerlat is played by the upper crown. In buildings built from porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Since the length of the mauerlat exceeds the standard dimensions of lumber, it has to be spliced.

The connection of the Mauerlat with each other is done as shown in the figure.

How to connect the Mauerlat?

Washed down the bars is made only at an angle of 90 °. Connections are made using bolts. Nails, wire, wooden dowels are not used.

How to fix the Mauerlat?

The Mauerlat is installed on top of the wall. Mounting technology provides for several ways to mount the Mauerlat:

• strictly in the center of the bearing wall;
• offset to one side.

Advice.
Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.

To protect the beam for the Mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer of waterproofing material, which most often acts as an ordinary roofing material.

The reliability of fastening the Mauerlat is an important aspect of construction. This is due to the fact that the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it experiences a strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic construction.

Wooden dowels. Are used for fellings from a log and a bar. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.

Staples.

Stud or armature. It is used if the cottage is built of porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).

Sliding fastening (hinged). The bundle in this way allows you to ensure the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.

Annealed wire (knitting, steel). It is used as an additional fastening in most cases.

2. Production of roof trusses or pairs

Installation is carried out in two ways:

• installation of bars directly on the roof. It is not used often, since it is problematic to perform all the work, measurements, trimming at a height. But it allows you to completely do the installation yourself;

• assembly on the ground. That is, individual elements (triangles or pairs) for the truss system can be assembled at the bottom, and then raised to the roof. The advantage of such a system is faster work at height. And the disadvantage is that the weight of the assembled roof truss structure can be significant. To lift it, you need special equipment.

Advice. Before assembling the rafter legs, you need to mark up. It is very convenient to use templates for this purpose. The truss pairs assembled according to the template will be exactly the same. To make a template, you need to take two boards, the length of each of which is equal to the length of one rafter, and are interconnected.

3. Installation of rafter legs

The collected pairs rise up and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, at the bottom of the rafter legs, you need to make a drink.

Advice. Since the slots on the Mauerlat will weaken it, you can only cut down on the rafter leg. To wash down was the same and fit snugly to the base, you need to use a template. It is cut out of plywood.

Methods for attaching the rafter leg are shown in the figure.

You need to start installing rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.

Advice. To properly install the rafter legs, it is better to use temporary struts and spacers.

A twine is stretched between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. And also, will indicate the level of the skate.

If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two extreme rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Further, half of the rafter pairs are attached to it.

It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered mounting order, which will evenly distribute the increasing load on the walls and foundation more evenly. This order involves the installation of one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs is installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that you need to do a consistent installation of each pair. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the reinforcement of the rafter legs is carried out with props and racks.

Nuance. Additional structural elements are connected by cutting. It is preferable to fix them with building brackets.

If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.

Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.

Advice. The method by which the Mauerlat is lengthened (washed down at 90 °) cannot be used in this case. This will weaken the rafter.

4. Installing the gable roof ridge

The ridge knot of the roof is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.

Roof ridge device:

• Method without using a support bar (see fig.).

• A method using a rafter bar. Timber is needed for large roofs. In the future, it can become a support for the rack.

• The method of laying on the beam.

• A more modern version of the manufacture of the ridge knot can be considered the method shown in the photo.

• Cutting method.

After the truss system is installed, we make a major fixing of all structural elements.

5. Mounting the roof sheathing

The crate is mounted in any case, and is designed for more convenient movement along the roof during work, as well as for fixing roofing material.

The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material, for example:

• under the metal tile - 350 mm (the distance between the two lower boards of the crate should be 300 mm).
• under a professional flooring and slate - 440 mm.
• under the soft roof we lay a continuous crate.

Rafter system of a gable roof with an attic - video:

Conclusion

As you can see, despite the seeming simplicity, the installation of a gable roof truss system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the above recommendations, you can easily build a reliable structure with your own hands.

If the roof of the house is not reliable, the structure will not last long. Today we are discussing how to make a roof with our own hands together with experts: how to choose good materials and tools for work, what is important to know before starting work and what problems can arise in the process?

Do-it-yourself roof

Before construction, you need to decide on the type of roof for the house. This is important not only for the appearance of the building, but also for the correct calculation of materials.

mansard roof

Practical option. It allows you to effectively use the entire available area of ​​​​the house, although it does not require inventive design solutions, noticeable alterations and serious roof insulation.

Photo 1 - Mansard roof house by Peter Stoner Architects
Photo 2 - Cozy country house for a large family from Van's Lumber & Custom Builders, Inc

Building a mansard roof is not very different from building any other.

Mansard roofs are:

1. gable;
2. broken duplex.

Photo 3 - The room on the attic floor can also be spacious, as in the house from Charles R Schwartzapfel RA PC
Photo 4 - Large house with natural wood trim from Charles R Schwartzapfel RA PC
Photo 5 - A cozy corner among tall perennial trees from Asse Architects

Gable is used for a single-level attic. According to the principle of construction, it does not differ from the usual gable. In the embodiment, such an idea is quite simple thanks to a simple truss structure. A noticeable drawback is the small size of the room.

Scheme 2 - Scheme of a gable mansard roof

In a broken gable, unlike the previous one, not two, but four pitched planes, which are located at different angles of inclination. In design and construction, this view is a little more complicated, but inside it is larger.

Scheme 3 - Broken gable mansard roof

shed roof

It is used not only in the construction of houses, but also garages, baths, arbors. The design is light and simple. Even a novice builder can build it.

Photo 6 - Private residential building from the architectural workshop "Atrium"
Photo 7 - Modern house of Roman Leonidov Architectural Bureau
Photo 8 - A shed roof and an attic are incompatible concepts, as in a house from the Alekminsky and Partners Architectural Bureau

Advantages:

• light weight;
• inexpensive materials;
• slope angle from 3° to 45°;
• well resists wind and snow (depending on the angle of inclination);
• you can arrange a platform for recreation (with a slight slope).

Minus: it will not work to equip an attic or attic under such a roof.

Photo 9 - Strict laconic lines and nothing more from Carlton Edwards
Photo 10 - Guest house by Tricia Shay Photography

Flat roof

Here it is important to foresee the weather conditions of the region. If in America the thickness of the snow cap is usually small, then in Russia the weight of snow can reach 240 kg per m2. Roofing materials must be strong in order to withstand such loads, and even their own weight. Reinforced concrete floors successfully cope with this task.

During installation, a construction crane and additional technologies are used. It will be difficult to cope on your own. Then roofing material, rubemast or euroroofing material comes to the rescue. They can last up to 15 years without repair if properly installed. The term will be reduced if you equip a recreation area or a green corner on the roof.

Photo 11 - One-story house for a small family from Snug Architects
Photo 12 - Stylish modern house from AR Design Studio Ltd
Photo 13 - Benelux by Nina Frolova

IMPORTANT! From a flat design, you can make a large terrace with access directly from the house.

Photo 14 - Flat Roof Grill House by Archduet
Photo 15 - Modernist house by mo+ architekten

hipped roof

Used for attics.

Photo 16 - Stone house on the lake from Porter Construction
Photo 17 - Big house by David Heide Design Studio

There are several types:

• Hip. Four slopes - two triangular and two trapezoidal. She does not have gables, dormer windows (or dormers) are equipped in slopes.

• Half hip. The hip planes are broken, i.e. consist of an upper triangle and a trapezoid.

Photo 18 - Country house from Zubkov`s brothers Architectural workshop
Photo 19 - Preston Hollow_Traditional by LRO Residential

• The hipped roof consists of four triangular planes, which are connected at a common upper point. It looks like a pyramid with a rectangular or square base. She also has no gables.

Photo 20 - One-story house for a friendly family from Sticks and Stones Design Group inc

How to make a roof with your own hands: step by step instructions

Mauerlat is made from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The beam is attached to the tree with nails, bolts or staples.

We install the ridge beam on the gables. If capital gables are not planned in the design, the rafters must be connected to each other on the ground and mounted on the roof already in the form of ready-made rafter corners.

The upper part of the rafters is fastened with a ridge. He is knocked down from below.

On the inside of the rafters we stretch the vapor barrier membrane.

A drain is mounted on the roof overhangs:

1. mounting brackets for gutters are fixed with screws to the frontal board;
2. the gutter is connected to the funnel with latches or glue;
3. the gutter is suspended from the roof on brackets;
4. you can connect the drain pipe to the funnel using a knee;
5. so that the pipe is adjacent to the wall, a pipe segment is inserted between the knees;
6. pipes are attached to the wall with clamps;
7. a drain is installed at the end of the downpipe.

We lay the roof, seal all the gaps and cracks.

• If the house is wooden, the upper beam becomes the support for the structure. If the walls are concrete or brick, it is necessary to prepare a place for the Mauerlat.
• Waterproofing is essential to prevent condensation and wood rot.
• First, a threaded stud or an anchor bolt must be driven into the depth of two bricks, to which the Mauerlat beam will be attached.
• Then make matching “locks” on it and the rafter leg. They are needed so that the rafters do not slip off. Since the main task of the beams is to evenly distribute the loads on the supporting walls, the ends are overlapped.
• Installation of rafters. For this, you need to choose boards or bars with a thickness of at least 60 mm and a moisture content of up to 20%. The rafter system consists of them in increments of 60 cm to 1 m. Each rafter rests against the corresponding lock on the Mauerlat.

Photo 21 - Mediterranean style house from

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his home on his own. According to their reviews, self-erecting a roof is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage, having in mind a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To figure out how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, the procedure for work and the features of fastening all components of the structure.

Roof types

First you need to decide on the form. To date, the most popular types are:

Form Features

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, then the labor intensity of the work will be the least, and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is mounted much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the four-slope, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular gables along the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before proceeding with the independent construction of a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. Such a system has more elements than the previous two. In addition, there is no way to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure is devoid of gables and installation is difficult or unavoidable.

The four-slope is difficult to construct, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, a combined design with. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper part. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the house built more comfortable.

A broken line is not the most “architectural”, but very efficient in terms of space used

Payment

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate sections of all elements. In most cases, they can be accepted constructively:

• mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• runs - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• pads with a thickness of 32 to 50 mm.

The calculation is usually performed only for rafter and sloping legs. It is required to choose the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• roofing material;
• snow region;
• the pitch of the rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation, for mineral wool between the elements, 58 cm should remain in the light);
• span.

You can choose the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case, it is recommended to make a small margin.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you do not want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you intend to make a warm roof, then the height of the section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, the installation of a counter-lattice (counter-rail) is provided.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (the dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, wood treatment with an antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof with the help of racks, struts and puffs;
7. waterproofing;
8. crate;
9. provision of ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. cover installation.

Fixing the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fixed, care must be taken to securely connect it to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown of a bar or log acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This version of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation.

"Sliding" mount in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with a gash using corners, staples or nails.

Methods for attaching rafters to the strapping in a frame house

The construction of a roof made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete implies fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to put the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on studs;
• for anchor bolts.

Mauerlat can be fixed on brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are laid in the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the other to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be classified as simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Mauerlat fastening on brackets. In the laying of the wall, antiseptic wooden bars are provided with a step of 1-1.5 m

Do-it-yourself fastening during roof installation can be carried out through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the edge, you need to lightly hit it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain on the beam in the places of fasteners. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After that, the timber is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete in the presence of a monolithic armo-belt.

Fastening rafters to Mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to carry out with the help of a rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both layered and hanging systems. The design assumes two ways:

• with a notch;
• without notch.

In the first case, the rafters are hemmed with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the Mauerlat. For the removal of the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will have greater reliability if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixing.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the frame overhang is provided by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, use persistent bars or boards. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Fastening rafters to the wall

The frame made must be fixed to the box of the building - this will not allow a strong gust of wind to tear off the roof. To do this, it is necessary to take as a rule the use of a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg at the place of support on the Mauerlat, and after that the wire is attached to the wall on an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in advance in masonry.

Windbreak protection

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

System Gain

How to strengthen the frame with spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this, struts and racks are used. It is necessary to make reinforcement taking into account the layout, it is important that these elements do not interfere with the stay of people and harmoniously fit into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. Racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They are allowed to be installed on the underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between the walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce thrust. Because of him, the rafters can simply disperse. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two puffs, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails or studs.

At the top, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross section of 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

crate

Before starting work at this stage, it is required to lay a waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor-diffusion moisture and wind-protective membrane. It is more expensive than plastic film, but provides better protection. Your home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fixing the crate. The type depends on the chosen roofing material. For metal, a sparse crate made of boards 32-40 mm thick will suffice. Under bituminous tiles, a solid crate of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood is needed.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding to the stage of laying the roof, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect the structure from mold, fungus and destruction.

Proper arrangement of ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the eaves (the filing of the cornice is made with a rarefied board or special perforated spotlights);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge (for this, a ridge and / or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roofing

The type of roofing is selected from aesthetic and economic considerations. It is also worth studying the offers of manufacturers and finding out the permissible slope. For example, bitumen shingles are not recommended for laying at a slope of more than 45 °.

Seam roofing is a lightweight, fireproof and durable coating.

The wall material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Before you begin to study the material on how to build a roof at home with your own hands, it is important to become better acquainted with the design features of each type of roof. So, the basic requirements for the roof structure are as follows:

• high mechanical strength, which can withstand not only the weight of the roof, but also large wind loads combined with the pressure of a mass of wet snow;
• low weight of the roof, which contributes to the absence of pressure on the bearing walls and the foundation of buildings and structures.

Depending on the design, the following types of roofing are distinguished:

1. flat;
2. pitched (with and without an attic).

If everything is more or less clear with a flat roof, then with a pitched roof the situation should be clarified. First of all, arranging a roof with an attic space has many advantages.:

• it becomes possible to get an additional utility room where you can organize the storage of things;
• over time, you will be able to convert the attic into a living space (the so-called attic);
• the level of general ventilation of the building increases significantly during the construction of attics;
• the attic is an additional layer of thermal insulation between living quarters and the environment, therefore, during its construction, special attention is paid to the insulation of this room.

Self-planning construction

Let us consider in more detail how to properly build the roof of a house with your own hands, while obtaining the highest quality version of the roof.

The practical advice and methods of work indicated here are advisory in nature and can be adjusted in each individual case, taking into account external conditions.

The slope of the roof is selected from the following conditions:

• in areas with more than average rainfall, the slope angle approaches 45 °, and in areas with frequent winds, they try to make the roof more gentle;
• piece roofing materials (slate and others) are used on pitched structures with an angle of at least 22 °, which helps to prevent the formation of leaks at the joints;
• the greater the slope of the roof, the higher the consumption of roofing materials and, accordingly, the cost of building a roof.

The main structural element of the roof is the rafter system, which bears almost the entire load created by the roof. It consists of the following structural elements:

• rafters;
• crates;
• struts (crossbars, puffs, etc.);
• Mauerlat.

The following roofing layers are laid on top of the supporting structure:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• counter-lattices;
• roofing.

Any roof must have increased mechanical strength in order to withstand its own weight and the effects of external atmospheric influences (snow, rain, gusts of wind).

Start of roof construction

Installation of the roof, as a rule, begins with the installation of a mauerlat (support beam), which is attached to the wall using special anchors or wire. After the installation of the Mauerlat is completed, they begin to install the rafters, the section of which is selected based on the following conditions:

• step length between rafters;
• roof pitch;
• roof loads;
• the length of the rafters themselves.

The upper end of the rafters is overlapped, with overlays or attached to a ridge beam. To increase the stability and reliability of the structure, struts are arranged between the runs and racks. The beam for making rafters must be treated with special chemical compounds that prevent premature decay. To connect the rafters to each other, special nails and bolts are used. Before screwing in the bolts, pre-drilling of the wood is performed, which makes it much easier to fasten the roof components together.

Range of roofing materials

Among the wide variety of roofing materials, the following materials compare favorably with their performance characteristics:

1. Ceramic tiles. Ecological, refractory, frost-resistant material, which has good sound insulation, low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability. This type of roof can withstand a long service life (50-100 years), during which ceramic tiles practically do not lose their properties.
2. metal tile. Corrosion and UV resistant roofing that is lightweight and easy to handle. Due to the presence of various colors, textures and profile bends, metal tiles quickly gained popularity.
3. bituminous tiles. It has elastic properties, which allows covering curved sections of the roof. She is not afraid of the influence of the environment and is quite easy to fit. Unlike other types of shingles, bitumen is not as durable, but has a lower price.

Hydro, heat and vapor barrier - current trends in roof construction

After the installation of the truss system is completed, a counter-lattice is nailed to it, designed to increase the roof coverage area and provide a gap between thermal insulation and waterproofing. This ventilation gap makes it possible to remove water condensate from under the insulation, which negatively affects the entire structure during roof operation. From above, the counter-lattice is covered with a waterproofing layer, which is laid with a margin in case of thermal expansion. Waterproofing allows steam to pass from the room into the insulation, but prevents moisture from entering the room.

After the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed, a transverse crate is fixed on the rafters, on which, in fact, the roofing material will be held. The crate is made from timber, which is fixed perpendicular to the rafters. When choosing some materials, a continuous crate may be required (bituminous rolled roofing, flat slate, sheet steel, and others). In this case, OSB boards or plywood with moisture-resistant properties are used, which are laid with a gap. This ensures optimal operating conditions and compensation for thermal expansion of materials.

When laying roofing materials, adhere to the direction from right to left and from bottom to top. Materials are laid directly on the crate. Each individual type of roof has its own fastening methods: for example, bituminous tiles are laid with nails and special glue, slate and metal tiles - with long nails.

After the installation of roofing materials and waterproofing, you can safely proceed to the procedure for laying heat-insulating materials. In this capacity, it is best to use materials of natural origin: mineral wool or organosilicon slabs. Apply heaters and non-natural origin: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, penoizol. Options for ecological insulation with straw, algae, sawdust, etc. are possible. The insulation layer is overlapped, due to which the degree of thermal conductivity decreases several times.

One of the important elements of the internal arrangement of the roof is a vapor barrier, which makes it possible to obtain reliable protection against condensate, which will necessarily form at the interface of the insulation. Today, the most popular vapor barrier material is a reinforced film, which has attractive performance parameters and an acceptable cost.

When installing a vapor barrier, special attention should be paid to junctions with external walls, pipelines and high-quality gluing of various pieces of vapor-proof material to each other.

Attic - the best option to expand living space

A fairly popular arrangement option is a pitched roof with an attic, which allows you to significantly expand the living space and effectively use the available space. When building a roof with an attic, attention should be paid to issues of high-quality insulation and lighting. In order to obtain comfortable conditions in an attic-type attic, preliminary installation of heat-insulating materials with low thermal conductivity is performed. Absolutely all planes bordering the environment are subject to insulation.

The question of the choice of roofing materials remains important, since the roof of metal tiles heats up pretty much in summer, thereby creating uncomfortable living conditions in the attic. This, in turn, entails additional costs for ventilation, air conditioning and thermal insulation, so it is very important to think through all the features of the construction of the future attic and its intended purpose. A properly and high-quality attic can become a full-fledged living space, which will be an ideal option for multi-purpose use.

Additional functional equipment of the roof

The final stage in the construction of the roof should be the installation of a drainage system, which will direct precipitation in the required direction, and protect the blind area and the walls of the building from additional harmful effects of moisture.

The drainage system should cover the entire surface of the roof and have the highest possible productivity, affecting the removal of water in the required direction and quantity. Modern building codes take into account the operation of the gutter system in the winter, for which an additional heating system is installed, which contributes to the melting of snow and ice on the roof surface. With a great desire and the availability of free time, the question of how to build a roof of a house with your own hands can be resolved in the shortest possible time. To do this, it will be enough to have basic skills of independent work with metalwork and woodworking tools.

We offer you to see how to build a roof at home with your own hands, a video on how to do it right and organize it.

Each stage of building a roof with your own hands is equally important and deserves close attention. Today we will talk in detail about each stage from "a" to "z" ... So, we are building the roof of the house with our own hands.

Stages of construction work on the arrangement of the roof with their own hands

Installing Mauerlat

An obligatory stage in the arrangement of the roof in brick and stone, but not in wooden houses.

Mauerlat is the name given to the entire roof truss system. Its installation can be carried out using various methods. But, regardless of the methods of fastening, it is necessary to take into account such parameters as the size of the building and the roof load on it.

So, the rafter system can be attached to the walls by:

• wire, which is wrapped around the Mauerlat and screwed to the wall. This is the simplest and most primitive option, which is used in cases where the roof is light in weight (this method is not considered absolutely reliable!);
• staples. This option is also suitable for buildings with low loads. In order to fix the Mauerlat with brackets, wooden bars are embedded in the masonry of each of the walls. After that, each of the brackets is attached with one side to the Mauerlat, and the other - to the bar;
• hairpins. To ensure such fasteners, studs with a diameter of 10-15 millimeters are used. They are laid in the wall masonry with the points up. Next, the Mauerlat is placed on the edge of the walls and lightly tapped with a hammer until marks from the studs appear on the timber. After that, holes are made in the places of the above marks. Mauerlat is put on studs and twisted with nuts;
• anchor bolts. A concrete belt of such bolts is laid along the edge of each of the walls. In the future, the installation process proceeds similarly to the variant with mounting on studs. Most experts consider this method the most reliable, it is practiced even when arranging the roof in buildings made of lightweight concrete.

We fasten the rafters

One of the main distinguishing features of a good roofing system is a reliable and high-quality fastening of the roof to the main frame of the building.

Currently, various methods of fastening rafters to the strapping of a structure are widely used. In the case of the roof of a wooden house, we cannot use any of the varieties of hanging structures. The rafter beams should only be inclined, and the fasteners must be hinged, due to this combination, a strong and at the same time movable fastener is provided, which is ideal in conditions of shrinkage of the frame of a wooden building.

Roofing work in brick and stone buildings suggest rigid fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat. Here, inclined or hanging fastening systems with or without a notch can be used.

Fastening with a notch implies a tight fit of the rafters to the Mauerlat. For this purpose, truss beams are hemmed in a certain way. Elements for the removal of cornices are overlapped. Rigid fixation of structural nodes is carried out by means of staples, screws or nails.

The mounting option without cutting is more technologically simple. The density of the junction of the rafters is ensured by persistent boards and bars, and the structural units are attached using metal corners.

We strengthen the structure

Installing additional structural elements (struts, racks, etc.) is a proven way to increase the reliability of the roof structure. However, in this context, one should not forget about the features of the layout and interior of the building. Therefore, it is important to remember the following rules:

• The struts should be placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees with respect to the horizontal plane.
• Support posts should not be installed on floor spans. Racks should be located on walls or beams and springs (between the walls of the house).
• In order to prevent the possible process of divergence of the rafter beams, special puffs are used.

We arrange the crate

The choice of the type of lathing is largely due to the characteristics of the material for the roof. In the event that it is planned to install a metal roof, the choice of a sparse non-continuous crate will be optimal. And for a soft bituminous roof, a continuous crate is ideal.

We equip ventilation

The under-roof space must be ventilated to protect the roof from mold, fungi and other unpleasant surprises.

For the ventilation device we:

• we ensure the flow of air through the cornices, using special perforated spotlights or simply sparse boards;
• we provide a gap of two to three centimeters between the layers of insulation and roofing materials for better circulation of the air flow;
• we carry out work on the installation of a special aerator in order to ensure the release of air in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge.

Remember that a properly arranged ventilation system protects the roof from destructive processes.

The choice of roofing materials- one of the main points in the long chain of all the above works. Currently, any serious manufacturer attaches the most detailed instructions for laying the roof to each name of the material sold.

Currently at the peak of popularity are the following roofing:

• corrugated board;
• ondulin;
• flexible (soft) tiles;
• seam tiles;
• metal tile.

The roof is one of the most important parts of a house. The durability of its operation depends on how correct its installation will be. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle it after a year. A variety of materials and designs also dictates how the roof will be built with your own hands. It also depends on the house itself: its size, the design of the walls.

The aesthetic component is also important, because someone likes a flat roof, someone prefers complex structures. In general, the roof of a private house with your own hands is an excellent solution in terms of budget and practicality, if you have free time for this.

Before you decide on the materials and installation methods, you should familiarize yourself with the instructional videos “we build the roof of the house with our own hands”, which describe in detail about the specific choice and how the work is carried out, as well as see a photo of the roof of the house with your own hands. This will help you understand what to choose, and you can better prepare for the work. In general, the whole process can be divided into the following stages:

1. Choice of design and materials;
2. Mauerlat mount;
3. Installation of the frame and reinforcement of the roof. At this stage, a do-it-yourself truss roof is being erected;
4. Sheathing and ventilation;
5. Installation of drips and roofing;
6. Cornice filing;
7. Warming.

The roof can be one-, two-, three- and four-pitched. The first option is the simplest and saves on material.

What needs to be remembered?

If you decide that the roof of the house with your own hands is quite realistic, then follow these tips:

• to begin with, a roof project is being prepared, according to which all work will be carried out;
• it is worth looking at the forums how certain materials look over time;
• it is important to choose the correct angle of inclination of the roof - with an unacceptable slope, the materials will behave differently;
• you should choose those materials for which a guarantee is provided. In other cases, one cannot count on the high quality of the erected structure.

In this article we will tell you how the roof of a private house is built with your own hands. Statistics show that almost every third homeowner built their own home. And this stage is often the most difficult in the whole process. To do this, you need to know and understand what nuances may arise, as well as successfully deal with them. Therefore, we advise you to carefully study the materials relating to the installation of various roofs, the technology of their installation and the order of work. Then the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands will be easy and without any problems.

Before designating the stages of construction, it is necessary to decide what the shape of the roof will be. She may be:

• one-, two- or four-slope;
• broken line;
• multi-forceps.

A shed roof is the easiest to perform, and will also allow you to save materials. The frame can be made independently, besides, it is quickly mounted. But it must be remembered that with this choice, the possibility of arranging the attic disappears.

The gable roof, in turn, is more popular, but it is more difficult to manufacture. Thanks to her, you can decorate the attic by placing, for example, guest rooms on the floor. A four-pitched roof is more difficult to implement, as it has more components.

Work order

As for the step-by-step instructions for performing the work, it looks like this:

• To begin with, the dimensions of the building are determined, on which, accordingly, the size of the roof also depends.
• Then materials are purchased.
• After that, a Mauerlat is attached to the wall.
• The final stage is the direct installation of the frame and roof.

It is necessary to take into account how and where the ventilation will be located, to ensure proper waterproofing: it is better to take care of this in advance so that you do not have to carry out repairs or, even worse, redo all the work. Also, before you start building the roof of a private house with your own hands, we recommend that you look at various reference materials, as well as consult with experts.

Video: Do-it-yourself roof of a private house

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