How to insulate the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered? If the roof is already covered: insulation of the attic from the inside in accordance with all the rules. Lathing and insulation of the attic roof.

Mansard roof insulation is one of the key steps in creating a reliable roofing pie, which is designed for a long service life. To ensure comfortable conditions for year-round living in the attic floor of the house, it is important to choose a high-quality insulation and properly install it.

Functional features of the thermal insulation layer of the roof

Properly executed insulation of the roof structure from the inside makes it possible to provide a favorable microclimate in the attic room. In the cold season, heat will be effectively stored there, and in the heat, thermal insulation will not allow overheating of the air in the rooms under the mansard roof. To create effective roof insulation, you need to understand the intricacies of the roofing pie installation technology and use high-quality materials and tools.

Insulation of mansard-type roofs is carried out according to the same principles as the insulation of ordinary roof structures, but increased requirements are imposed on mansard roofs. This is due to the design features of the attic rooms, the walls of which are either formed by the slopes of the roof and the gables of the house, or are closely adjacent to the slopes. For this reason, the air in the attic in the summer heat is very hot, and cools quickly in winter.

The mansard roof multi-layer cake consists of the following components (from the inner layer to the outer):

• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation;
• gap for ventilation;
• waterproofing;
• roofing material.

The presence of all layers is mandatory, since each of them performs a strictly defined function. Increased attention is required for ventilation and the heat-insulating layer of the roofing pie, since the level of comfort when living in the attic floor of the house depends on their quality performance.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to pay attention to such an indicator of the material as thermal conductivity.. It characterizes the ability of a material to transfer heat into or out of a room. The lower this indicator, the better the material protects against heat leakage, therefore, the smaller the layer of insulation can be used to achieve the required thermal insulation characteristics of the roof.

In a heated room, the greatest heat loss occurs through the roof, since, in accordance with the laws of physics, warm air rises. Heat penetrates through the roofing cake and is transferred to the top coat, which is covered with a layer of snow in winter. Snow has a porous structure, and due to internal air pockets, it acts as an external heat insulator at air temperatures below -2 degrees.

If the heat loss of the house through the roof is large, the roofing material heats up, which causes the snow to melt. When the air temperature drops, the melted snow forms an ice crust. This is dangerous for roofing, as when freezing water has a negative effect on the outer surface of the roof. Ice, unlike snow, is not a thermal insulator, in addition, it is denser in structure - the ice crust on the roof significantly increases the load on structures. If the insulation from the inside is done correctly, in winter the snow on the roof does not melt.

In the hot summer period, excess heat is transferred from the roof to the inside of the room. The air can overheat so much that even air conditioners will find it difficult to maintain a normal microclimate on the attic floor. Installing a reliable heat-insulating layer from the inside of the roof will avoid such problems. Of course, the air in the attic will be heated more than in the rooms on the first floor, but the difference will not become uncomfortable.

Features of mansard roof ventilation

Mansard roof insulation requires a special approach. This is due to its design features. If we compare the device of an ordinary roof and an attic, it is obvious that the main difference is the size of the ventilation space between the living quarters and the roof. Ventilation of a conventional roof is provided by the presence of an attic with dormer windows. The ventilation space of the mansard roof is very limited - it is only about 10-15 centimeters.

Properly performed ventilation is extremely important when arranging a mansard roof roofing pie.. The ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the insulation helps to remove excess moisture from under the roof, protecting the entire structure and extending its service life. In winter, ventilation prevents overheating of the roof and the formation of an ice crust on it. In hot weather, due to the ventilation from under the roof, part of the heat is removed, thanks to which it is possible to avoid overheating of the air in the attic floor and the structural elements of the roof.

The choice of insulation

At the stage of preparation for the installation of the roofing cake, you should decide on the choice of material for insulation. The number of layers and the thickness of the thermal insulation depend on the correctly selected type and technical characteristics. A wide range of materials for the insulation of roof structures is presented on the modern construction market. Among the most requested are:

• polyurethane foam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• glass wool;
• mineral wool.

Foamed glass can also be used, various types of natural insulation for installation from the inside (wood chips, seaweed, granulated paper, etc.).

There are four main criteria for choosing a thermal insulation material:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• fire resistance;
• environmental Safety.

Note! To insulate a mansard-type roof, it is recommended to use a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 W / m * K and below.

The higher the moisture resistance of the insulation, the longer it will retain its functional qualities. The index of resistance to burning is an important criterion for ensuring the safety of the house. It is also important to consider the environmental friendliness of the material and its safety for humans. But the last two parameters do not affect the durability and effectiveness of roof insulation.

Mineral wool - a heater made from a melt of rocks. The material holds heat well, does not rot, is resistant to temperature extremes and aggressive environments, and practically does not absorb moisture. Mats of various thicknesses made of mineral wool are especially convenient to use for roof insulation, if the pitch of the rafters matches the width of the mat.

Glass wool is made from molten glass, in terms of its properties this type of insulation is close to mineral wool, but has a lower thermal threshold of -450 ° C. It has good heat and sound insulating characteristics. Glass wool is frost resistant. Moisture can accumulate between the glass wool fibers, so waterproofing must be done correctly.

Mineral wool and glass wool allow you to insulate the roof with minimal financial investment. The disadvantages include the need to create a thick layer of insulation and several layers of vapor and waterproofing.

It is possible to insulate the roof structure from the inside with the help of polymeric materials - expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The advantages of polyurethane foam (gas-filled plastic) include a high ability to retain heat, lightness, and durability. Polyurethane foam does not pass steam and is not affected by moisture. Extruded polystyrene foam allows you to effectively insulate the roof - its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W / m * K. The material has hydrophobicity, does not pass steam. Flammability class from G1 to G4, depends on the brand of material. The disadvantages of polymer insulation include their artificial origin and relatively high cost.

If there is a goal to build a house exclusively from environmentally friendly materials, you can insulate the roof with natural heat insulators. Despite good thermal conductivity and environmental friendliness, various types of natural insulation have their drawbacks. Foamed glass is highly brittle. Granular paper, as well as mats made of reeds, straw, seaweed and similar materials are highly flammable and require special skills during installation.

Insulation installation technology

To understand how best to perform the installation of thermal insulation when arranging a roofing pie, you must first familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for the work. In general, the insulation of the roof of the house comes down to the following actions:

• preparation of space for the installation of insulation;
• laying a heat-insulating layer;
• material fixation.

At the stage of preparing the project of the rafter structure, the step with which the rafters will be installed should be determined. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the rafter system must be reliable, that is, the step should not exceed the recommended values. If the type of insulation is selected in advance, it is recommended to install the rafters in such a way that the mats or insulation boards fit tightly between them from the inside. This simplifies the insulation technology and minimizes the waste of thermal insulation material.

Above the thermal insulation, between the crate and the rafters, waterproofing is laid. The material is overlapped, laying starts from the bottom edge of the slope. Then wooden counter-battens are mounted - their thickness creates the required ventilation gap of the roof. Reiki can be attached to the rafters with nails, but it is better to use self-tapping screws. Insulation is laid and attached to the prepared structure from the inside between the rafters.

A rafter leg made of metal or wood is a cold bridge, since its thermal conductivity is much worse than that of a heat insulator.

For this reason, when insulating the attic, you should not limit yourself to installing a heat insulator between the rafters - it is better to make a continuous heat-insulating layer on top of the already laid mats and rafters. For a continuous layer, it is better to use a thinner insulation. This method improves the quality of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that in this case the rafters are hidden, and it is more difficult to use them in the future to fasten other structural elements. To facilitate the progress of further work, the location of the rafters should be correctly noted.

A vapor-permeable film should be laid on top of the thermal insulation. Its use allows you to remove excess moisture. Then the prepared structure is fastened with a crate. At the final stage of work, the inner lining of the ceiling is performed. Properly performed roof insulation allows you to use the attic floor as a living space all year round, in which a favorable microclimate is maintained.

Mansard roof insulation: how to insulate from the inside and the better, video

Find out how to insulate a mansard roof from the inside, and what type of insulation is best. Insulation technology, waterproofing and ventilation of the mansard roof along with a training video

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands

Many homeowners succumb to the temptation to equip the house with a comfortable residential attic. Such a desire is natural, this is a great opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, this gives the building a special charm, brings a certain amount of romanticism to its appearance.

Special roof windows enhance the impression. Today, most new private housing is already being built with an attic. But often, wanting to increase households, and in not new houses, the owners equip and insulate old non-residential attics.

Attics are located almost under the roof. What are the usual requirements for them? It is important that it is cool enough in summer and dry and warm in winter. In order for the room to meet the indicated requirements, it is important to know what processes take place in it, to understand the essence of competent insulation.

It is not difficult to do all the necessary work with your own hands, their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the availability of the necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, the wooden rafters will not get wet and rot, and the heat-insulating material will serve for a long time and reliably.

Attic: why do you need roof insulation?

Housing under the roof is a special place. Its walls are closely adjacent to the roof surface, while the ventilation gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. A characteristic feature of the room is associated with this - it instantly gets cold in winter, and literally heats up in front of our eyes in summer. Such valuable heat for housing escapes through the roof in winter, while in summer it, on the contrary, heats up a lot, significantly raising the temperature of the room.

The ongoing processes depend on the quality of ventilation, as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.

In summer, it heats up, heating the entire structure, which makes the air in the room also very hot. If the building has a familiar cold attic, then everything happens differently.

The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic, and the snow on its roof in winter.

Backfill materials on the floor, together with air, keep the heat coming from below, from housing.

Thanks to this, even in very frosty winters, t in the attic is kept at about 0 degrees. The snow does not melt outside, being another, additional insulator. In summer, t is regulated by vents on the gables, which play the role of a kind of ventilation system. How to insulate an attic?

Attic insulation: materials

The choice of the optimally suitable material is a very responsible task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation “pie” itself, the number of minimum layers in it.

It has special requirements:

• Low thermal conductivity. A material with a coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W / m * K is best suited.
• Ease. The weight of the material matters, it should not overload the roof.
• Low moisture permeability. If suddenly the roof leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
• Fire resistance. It is extremely important that the material is non-combustible and does not support combustion.
• Elasticity, keeping the shape. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials can sort of slide off, leaving voids. That's why it's so important that it can keep its shape.
• Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
• Strength and durability.

Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.

glass wool

This is perhaps the most successful solution for insulating the attic roof from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all the free space. Mineral wool does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.

Basalt wool in slabs remarkably retains its shape. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore needs additional hydro and vapor barrier. This is very important: after all, if mineral wool gets wet, then it will irretrievably lose more than half of its useful qualities. If this happens, you will have to change it.

Despite this disadvantage, it is one of the most suitable materials for roof insulation from the inside. It is easy to work with her, she has an affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it eliminates possible shortcomings.

This is a very popular and sought-after material. But the use of expanded polystyrene for attic insulation should be considered in more detail.

The material has certain characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.

These are its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimal weight, low moisture permeability, ideally rigid shape.

But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different grades of material have different degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its combustible varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When ignited, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost impossible to survive in such a flaming attic.

Expanded polystyrene is not very convenient for work, so when cutting, cutting and installing it crumbles quite a lot. When using it, there are gaps between the rafters, and they have to be repaired somehow. From time to time it collapses, and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using foam in this case is not very reasonable.

Expanded polystyrene extruded

This is a wonderful material for insulating the attic from the outside, for laying under the roof, on the rafters. It is quite durable, perfectly retains its shape, it is not afraid of high humidity and, very importantly, it does not burn. Special attention deserves the fact that for warming a not very thick layer is required - 5-10 cm.

polyurethane foam

This is a new generation material. With the help of a special installation, it is blown into the voids of the insulated material, leaving no gaps or holes. This coating prevents the formation of cold bridges.

This material is not afraid of fire and water, it is light, durable, holds its shape well. But he also has a minus - he has an extremely low rate of vapor permeability: he almost does not breathe. Consequently, without the arrangement of forced ventilation, there will always be high humidity in the attic.

Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually ideal.

He, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.

It is also extremely lightweight, moisture resistant, completely flame retardant and breathable.

In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither the smallest particles, nor even evaporation of ecowool can harm health, unlike the same mineral wool.

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

When choosing how best to insulate the attic roof, one should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to the specific features of its application. It is most convenient to carry out the insulation of the room from the inside: if there are no contraindications to it, and space allows.

Various types of heaters are used for this - both mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam, ecowool or polyurethane foam is blown in. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is the observance of a competent combination, or "pie" of roof insulation. This will also ensure the comfort of living under it, that is, in the attic room.

Warming cake - from the inside out

When using wadded materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film is required. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living room with steam.

Regardless of the chosen insulation, waterproofing will be required in any case. Its purpose is to protect the wooden parts of the roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special super-diffuse membranes, which are distinguished by special qualities.

They can release steam to the outside, but at the same time not let moisture in. A gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane for ventilation. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.

Attic: roof insulation from the outside

It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway. If it is already completed, you will have to remove the roofing material. The external method of roof insulation keeps all the available living space safe and sound. The solutions of some designers also involve playing with roof rafters as decorative elements of the interior.

Technology

For external insulation, only plate material with a high density is used.

These include Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

He is not afraid of moisture, and he does not need vapor barrier. "Pie" for external insulation with polystyrene foam looks like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam boards;
• Waterproofing membrane;
• Ventilation gap with crate;
• Roof material.

An obvious plus of such insulation is free access to the rafters, at any time, facilitating their inspection and even repair. The method of insulation with Penoplex on top of the rafters is different in that it allows you to equip the heat-insulating protective layer completely, preventing the creation of cold bridges.

If a system of a special hinged facade is used for insulation, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be used as insulation. And under the planned wet facade, you can successfully enclose the usual foam. The main thing for success is strict adherence to technology.

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands

How to insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands? Ways to insulate inside and outside. We will choose a heater: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, etc. Roof insulation =>

Mansard roof insulation

If the attic remains non-residential, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with floor insulation). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create conditions for the entire roofing system to serve for a long time.

Insulation of a sloping mansard-type roof must be carried out according to certain rules

Let's say right away that all the wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: both battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with flame retardants. All elements that are located on the side of the street are treated with compounds for outdoor work. Treat all wooden parts facing the inside of the room with impregnations for interior work. If you use the composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If the opposite is true, the wood on the outside may suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. So don't skimp on this.

Yet. Before describing how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this, special ventilation holes are arranged on the skate. Through them, the air from under the roofing material escapes, carrying away excess moisture. And it must fall under the roofing through the overhangs. There absolutely can not be done all hermetically. That's where the air comes from. Only in this way will the condensate dry out in a timely manner and the roof will serve for a long time.

In order for the insulation to be correct and moisture to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to move air masses under the roofing material

Proper attic insulation

In order for the attic floor to be warm in winter and cool in summer, there are no problems with high humidity, icicles do not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, vapor and waterproofing are a complex solution, and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is at the same time the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• internal lining (drywall or lining);
• crate;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for central Russia it is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• crate;
• roofing.

How to insulate a mansard roof: a sequence of layers of a sloping roof for a living space

The photo shows the insulation of a broken mansard roof in a graphical version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is laid over the insulation (indicated in blue). Its purpose is to prevent condensate formed or precipitation seeping through the roofing from entering the insulation and removing the steam that nevertheless got into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with a vapor permeability of 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (as it is, in fact, it is), only waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it fits exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and closely fitting on the insulation. Often, to save money, they roll it out over the rafters, but without pulling it, but making it sag by 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets on the surface, and then rolls down and out of the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must go into the gutter. Then the moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

You can also lay waterproofing like this: with a slight sag, but definitely NOT pulling it

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row is launched into the gutter. The next one is rolled out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. On the ridge, the membranes are cut off on both sides along the upper edge and fixed. A strip rolls along the ridge, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating through which water flows down to the gutter itself.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about the vapor barrier. It must also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be as low as possible. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it generally crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with the entry of one panel onto another. Moreover, these joints are glued with a special double-sided vapor-tight tape (it looks like sticky rubber). Ordinary painting or stationery will not work. They do not provide 100% vapor protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

A line is drawn on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer starts (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with adhesive tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the lags with stapler brackets or, as in the figure, with planks of the inner crate for mounting the skin. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry the finish and the membrane. This clearance is desirable but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

thermal insulation

The better to insulate a sloping roof - the question is complex and there is no unambiguous answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the mansard roof usually has a large angle of inclination, soft materials can slip. It is for this reason that it is better to take plates. Although in this case it will be necessary to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes “spread” between the beams and holds well.

It is necessary to lay thermal insulation in such a way that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, usually 200-250 mm of mineral wool is required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between the rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the plate becomes dense, excluding the presence of cracks. If the width is more/less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter do not allow laying the entire insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across from the side of the room. Between them lay the remnants of insulation. From above, a vapor barrier is already attached to it and, if necessary, a crate for finishing. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely excluded, blocking even the rafters. This method requires a little more installation costs, but it will definitely be warmer in the attic, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate a mansard roof: the order of work

The device of the attic floor is good because it allows you to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to lay and fix the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, the crate and roofing material on it. And attic insulation can be done from the inside after a while.

But pay attention: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not lay this membrane. As a result, either it is necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this shortcoming. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal state of the materials.

We warm outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

• from the side of the room, a crate is stuffed across the rafters - thermal insulation will lie on it, instead of a crate, a cord or galvanized wire is sometimes attached;
• heat-insulating material is laid on it from the side of the roof (according to all the rules, shifting the seams, making sure that there are no gaps);
• a superdiffusion membrane is rolled over the thermal insulation;
• crate is stuffed;
• roofing is laid;
• from the side of the room, a vapor barrier is fixed and glued;
• with or without crate mount trim.

Insulation of the mansard roof from the outside: it is not difficult to work, the thermal insulation is laid on the crate lined from below

With this option, it is not difficult to work with a heater: it is easy to lay it, it relies on a crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the interior decoration for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the truss system, here's what you need to do:

• roll out and fix the waterproofing;
• stuff the crate (if necessary, a counter-crate);
• install roofing material.

For the first stage, this is all the necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make a building envelope that will not allow you to push the insulation higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed in some way: it strives to fall on the head. The order of work is as follows:

• between the lags in increments of 40-50 cm, stuff the strips that will hold the thermal insulation, providing the required ventilation gap;
• thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid and fixed (the rules remain the same);
• a crate is nailed to hold the layers of insulation;
• a vapor barrier membrane is laid and glued;
• the crate and finishing material is mounted.

If you use plates, then it is also easy to insulate the attic from the inside.

A few notes on how you can lay the heat-insulating material. If these are high-density mineral wool mats and their width is a little more than the step between the joists, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is laid, everything is more complicated. Making the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, it is laid from the bottom up. Take a string, a construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it against the planks, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you fix the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the mansard roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are caked, settling down, the thermal insulation of the mansard roof deteriorates.

These are the consequences of laying mineral wool rolls of insufficient density

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. It is good, but not at all ideal: it is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Sheathe the roof with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polyfoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned, it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing grades (with special additives). Here they are better for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polyfoam: low price. It is mounted simply: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with mounting foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order the plates of the right size - 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to the elasticity, they hold very well.

From the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But it protects more a wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it itself, it does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not let the vapor through, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is an additional cost.

XPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene. It also has a system of locks, which reduces the risk of cracks, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not multiply on it. What limits its use: a solid price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Ekstrol, STEREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Stirofoam), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increases in size many times, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is perhaps the only way today to correct the situation and insulate the attic with high quality, if during the installation of the roofing they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

This is the process of insulation with expanded polystyrene foam (left) and what happened as a result. Excess is trimmed to the level of the lag

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition is poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, sheet material (fiberboard, GVL, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and from above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool comes out under pressure. It fills all the cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The process of insulating a mansard roof with ecowool

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

Attic insulation: inside, outside, materials

It is always tempting to use an attic space for living. For comfortable conditions, it is necessary to insulate the attic room. It can be done inside and out, using different materials.

Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video

Increasingly, happy owners of suburban or private housing are tempted by the opportunity to build a residential attic space in their home. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to expand square living meters and add individuality to a standard building.

Recently, most suburban buildings are immediately erected with an attic, but this does not mean that they do not have problems with insulation and through them, as well as through old attics, up to 30% of heat is still lost.

So that with the onset of winter cold on the attic floor it is warm and cozy, and in the summer heat it is cool and the roof structure has served for a long time, you need to understand the features of the insulation of such a room and the processes occurring in it.

In this case, all work can be done independently with the help of an assistant and the necessary tools. The main thing is to follow all the rules and regulations for the insulation of such structures, and then the thermal insulation, like the entire roof, will last for many years without major repairs.

In what cases may you need attic insulation?

The attic floor is a room of a special design, in which the walls practically merge into a single whole with the roof surface and the ventilation gap does not exceed 100–150 mm. Exactly because of this reason there is a rapid cooling of the room in winter and heating in the summer season. The entire surface of the roof structure, as it were, is a heat accumulator in the summer heat and through it the heat goes outside with the onset of cold weather. First of all, this is due to the level of thermal conductivity of the materials used for the construction of the roof.

In winter, heat flows from batteries rise upward according to the laws of physics, being distributed under the roof vault and volatilizing freely into the street, since the materials from which a standard roof is made easily conduct heat.

This causes the snow to melt, turning into ice, destroys the roof. In turn, in the summer heat, the air in the attic room heats up so much that it becomes hard to breathe. At the same time, even a very powerful air conditioner will not work to cool such a room.

How to be in such a situation? There is only one answer - to insulate the attic room with high quality, choosing the right heat-insulating material, the parameters of its thickness and the place of installation in the under-roof space, in compliance with the technological process.

For example, if the insulation is made with insufficiently thick material, selected by eye, then the problem will be solved only partially and the room will still be cool and uncomfortable. Only correctly selected in terms of thickness and thermal conductivity insulation will allow you to qualitatively isolate the attic from the roof structure, and with the construction of proper ventilation, all excess moisture will be quickly and freely removed to the outside.

How to insulate mansard roofs - criteria for choosing a material for insulation

The choice of high-quality heat-insulating materials for warming the attic room from the inside is a very responsible process. The thickness and layering of the roofing cake will depend on the type of insulation and its main characteristics.

Due to the fact that the attic is a room of a specific design, then the choice of insulation should be based on the requirements for it:

It is very important to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation, which should be based on the characteristics of the construction region, the thickness of the walls of the house, the presence or absence of insulation, and the thickness of the roofing cake. All these parameters are of high importance, and only based on them, you can choose the right thickness of the heat-insulating material. If you skip the calculation stage, then it is better to opt for mineral wool 25 cm thick.

What is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside?

For internal thermal insulation of the attic, you need to choose high-quality heaters based on the climatic features of the region where the building was built. Due to the thermal engineering features, each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages, on which the popularity of the material is based:

Do-it-yourself technology for arranging a heat-insulating layer in the under-roof space of the roof involves the use of either mineral basalt insulation or expanded polystyrene plates. It is easy to work with such materials and they have high-quality technical characteristics. Often a combination of roll material is used and insulation in slabs. Mineral wool is laid between the roof rafters, and expanded polystyrene plates are mounted on top of it.

Insulation "pie" for thermal insulation of the attic

Only by observing the correct sequence of the insulating "pie" from the inside of the attic roof, you can achieve comfort and coziness in the room at any time of the year. In this case, this design has the following layers:

A vapor barrier layer is a mandatory requirement for laying cotton wool insulation. Thanks to this, it is possible to qualitatively protect mineral wool from steam and condensate. In the case of using polyurethane foam, a vapor barrier is not required.

A waterproofing layer is needed in all situations and will depend on its use. high-quality protection of wooden elements of the roof structure. As a waterproofing, it is advisable to use diffusion-type membranes, which freely let vapors out and do not let moisture into the room.

Be sure to leave an air ventilation gap of at least 50 mm between the layers of the heat insulator and the waterproofing material. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture from the insulation.

Attic roof insulation from the inside between the rafters

The process of internal insulation of the mansard roof should begin at the stage of construction of the building. This is the only way to check the correctness of the layers of the roofing "pie". At the same time, it is advisable to draw up a detailed diagram of the attic room with your own hands and mark on it the places that are subject to insulation from the inside.

Very often, the attic structure has a cropped structure. Simply put, between the lower part of the roof slope and the interior decoration of the room there is free space that does not need to be insulated. But in such a situation, it is important to insulate the ceiling along the very edge of the roof structure.

At this stage, all work on the insulation of the attic can be considered completed. But in order to fully understand the essence of the installation process, you can familiarize yourself with the video, warming the roof of the attic floor. If you plan to insulate the attic in an old building, and there is no desire to disassemble the roof structure, then there is a little trick. The waterproofing layer is rolled out directly from the inside of the attic, wrapping the rafters and leading the material into the space between them. But in such a situation, it will not be possible to protect wooden beams in the event of a leak of roofing material.

Construction of thermal insulation from the inside under the rafters

A mansard roof, the insulation of which is carried out from the inside, when the thermal insulation is laid on top of the truss structure, and not in the space between adjacent beams, it turns out to be very warm. Thanks to this method, cold bridges can be avoided, which are wooden beams. With this method, the insulation will fit snugly against the bottom of the beams, and the resulting space will serve as additional ventilation. But keep in mind that in such a situation, the usable area will be reduced on all sides by 300 mm. The very installation process of attic insulation from the inside is due to the following activities:

Do-it-yourself work on insulating a mansard roof is a fairly simple process and does not require high professionalism or expensive materials. Therefore, to figure out how to insulate the attic is within the power of everyone, even with minor skills in the repair issue.

Insulation of the attic roof: how and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, video

Do-it-yourself insulation of the mansard roof with mineral wool. Various ways of insulating roof structures on the attic floor.

Every room in a private house needs to be insulated, especially if it is under the roof. If this is neglected or the insulation technology is violated, then in the cold season the wind will blow into all the cracks, as a result of which condensation will accumulate on the rafters and the ceiling, which will definitely lead to rotting of the wooden parts of the roof. That is why it is necessary to foresee all the nuances in advance and properly insulate the attic space.

How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside

The range of thermal insulation materials is so large that it is quite difficult to immediately decide on the choice of a suitable insulation for the attic.

1. Fiberglass material is the cheapest, but still it has a lot of advantages. For example, it does not burn, is non-toxic, adheres well to other materials and retains heat. Operational properties are preserved only if the installation technology is fully observed. But fiberglass also has disadvantages. This material does not emit harmful substances, but fine dust from fiberglass fragments may appear in the room. The result of contact with such dust can be skin problems, it will begin to itch, which may cause scratches that do not heal for a long time. Therefore, it is very important to use a respirator while working with the material and carefully observe safety precautions. Also, fiberglass is difficult to lay on walls that are at an angle, which means that it may be difficult to insulate the attic.

   Fiberglass insulation can cause constant discomfort

2. Mineral wool is a natural insulation with the addition of synthetic fibers that increase its performance. Its main advantages are lightness, environmental safety, soundproofing properties. Therefore, for attic insulation, such material is almost ideal. It can be produced both in the form of plates and in rolls. For attic insulation, it is more convenient to use the first option.

   Mineral wool is considered a good insulation due to its fire resistance.

3. Polyfoam is a material that perfectly combines good thermal insulation properties with a low price and ease of installation. This material will slightly increase the weight of the attic structure and practically does not require special skills for installation. However, the foam is not able to pass steam. There is also another significant drawback - mice love it.

   Styrofoam may appeal to mice

4. Polyurethane foam. A unique insulation with a liquid structure. For application, a special spray device is used. After that, the polyurethane foam hardens and forms a monolithic coating without seams, which means that the presence of cold bridges is excluded.

   Polyurethane foam initially has a liquid structure

5. Foil materials perform several functions at once: insulation and mirror reflection, which does not allow heat to escape to the outside. This is possible only if the material is laid with an aluminum layer inside the attic. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 5 cm between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

   Foil insulation performs several functions at once

Video: polystyrene or mineral wool - what to choose

Basic rules for insulating the attic from the inside

Insulation of the attic from the inside implies the arrangement of a constructive pie. It has a certain scheme, which is not recommended to deviate from:

1. Plasterboard lining.
2. Vapor barrier. The use of a membrane is recommended. The vapor barrier layer is a coating created from rolled material with an overlap of 10 cm. It is necessary to fasten the sheets along vertical and horizontal joints using a special adhesive tape.

   Vapor barrier prevents condensation

3. Lathing. It performs three functions at once: it holds the heat-insulating material, it is the basis for the vapor barrier layer, it forms a ventilation space (which is not always necessary, it is mainly necessary when using foil insulation).
4. Thermal insulation layer. Can be applied in multiple layers if needed. When insulating the attic from the inside, the insulation is placed in the space between the rafters.

   Most often, insulation is placed in the space between the rafters.

5. waterproofing layer. It is necessary to protect the insulation from getting wet. If this rule is neglected, the heat-insulating layer will lose its operational properties. It is recommended to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and waterproofing so that condensation does not form inside the cake.
6. The counter-lattice is necessary to ensure the ventilation gap. Additionally, you need to make holes in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base of the slopes and the valley. The width of the ventilation gap depends entirely on the roofing material used. When covered with slate or other similar material, this parameter is 25 mm, when installing flat material - 50 mm.
7. Wind isolation. This layer performs a windproof function, it traps heat in case of excessive ventilation in the ventilation gap. Wind insulation is laid over the rafters, fixed with battens. After laying the material, finishing work is carried out on the arrangement of the roof.

   When insulating the attic, it is important to follow a certain sequence of layers.

Warming methods

Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in several ways:

1. Installation of insulation between the rafters. This method is considered the simplest, therefore, when warming with your own hands, you can safely use it. There are certain rules that must be observed in this case. First of all, this concerns the presence of a ventilation gap, which must necessarily be between the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. This will prevent the accumulation of condensate. It is also recommended to carefully monitor the thickness of the insulation. It must fully correspond to the thickness of the rafters. That is why most often when choosing this method of insulation, mineral wool is chosen.

   The dimensions of the thermal insulation board must be larger than the dimensions of the space between the rafters.

2. Integrated insulation. In this case, several types of heat-insulating material are used at once, which have hydraulic properties. However, there is a risk of condensate accumulation, since there is no ventilation gap, and the ceiling height becomes smaller.
3. Installation of insulation over the rafters. This method allows you to save usable space. The rafters themselves can play the role of interior decor. When insulating, it is very important to equip a hydro- and vapor barrier layer.

   Rafters can be part of the interior decor

Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands in stages

The peculiarity of the attic is that this attic floor is almost completely formed by the roof surface. It is an inclined part of the rafter system, which needs insulation. Additionally, you can insulate the floor of the attic.

Materials and tools

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic from the inside, so a list of tools and materials will be given accordingly. For insulation you need:

You will also need the following materials:

• directly insulation - mineral wool, which is recommended to be cut into suitable pieces in advance;
• wooden counter rails.

Roof insulation

The attic slopes are sloping, which means that for their insulation it is necessary to use a material that does not deform over time. It is also recommended to take not a continuous sheet of insulation, but its pieces. This will allow the material to be tightly inserted between the rafters, and it will not sag under its own weight. The whole process of roof insulation is as follows:

1. Cut the mineral wool into pieces that are slightly larger than the space between the rafters.

   You can lay the material between the rafters or under them

2. The gaps must also be filled with heat-insulating material. To do this, cut off a strip of 2–2.5 cm more than the gap under the ruler from a roll of mineral wool. The resulting piece of material is driven into the slot with force.
3. In a place where the roof changes its plane, it is very important to properly join the pieces of insulation. First of all, this applies to the ridge and the junction of the roof with the wall.
4. The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane, which is overlapped and fastened with brackets.

   The vapor barrier membrane is overlapped

To seal the gaps between the insulation plates, it is strictly forbidden to use mounting foam. Therefore, it is recommended to cut the material in advance, taking into account the margin, so that the insulation lies butt to each other.

Video: how to insulate the attic roof from the inside

Floor insulation

During the construction of a private house equipped with an attic, one of three types of flooring is used. That is why there are three ways to warm them:

On a horizontal surface, you can use rolled material, on a vertical one - take pieces of material of the appropriate size.

Warming of gables

The method of insulation depends on the design of the building:

Partition insulation

To isolate the attic partitions of a private house, it is better to choose mineral wool slabs. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to make the structure heavier, and it is also recommended to ensure its fire resistance. To insulate partitions, you need:

Video: foam insulation

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The desire to live better, to have spacious houses, separate rooms for each family member and guests is a completely natural desire of our fellow citizens. Improvement of living conditions can be achieved in two ways: build large and expensive houses using traditional technology or use modern solutions and convert attic spaces into residential ones. These are the so-called attic rooms, this method allows you to achieve your goals with minimal financial losses.

Due to the successful combination of housing quality, living comfort and the estimated cost of construction work, attic rooms are very popular among domestic developers. Currently, there are many technologies and special materials for the insulation of such premises. In order to make the right and informed choice, it is recommended to briefly familiarize yourself with their physical and operational characteristics.

The industry produces a wide range of materials used for building insulation. Regardless of the production technology, all of them must meet several universal requirements.

These are general requirements, and popular heaters meet optimal performance to varying degrees.

What materials can be used to insulate a mansard roof

We will give a brief description of all possible options, and based on objective characteristics, it will be easier for developers to make the right choice.

Table. Types of insulation for the attic

Name of insulation	Physical and performance characteristics
	The most advertised material for roof insulation. It has good heat saving performance, it is technologically advanced, it is easy to cut and fit. Mineral wool does not emit any harmful chemical compounds into the air, does not burn, is allowed for use without restrictions. These are positive qualities of the material, but there are also negative ones. Mineral wool is very hygroscopic, it can absorb a large amount of moisture. As a result, thermal conductivity increases sharply, next to wet cotton wool, all wooden structures of the truss system quickly rot. To protect against moisture penetration, it is necessary to use special membranes, and this is an additional increase in the estimated cost of construction. In addition, the price of mineral wool is the highest among all existing heaters.
	A highly sought after material. In many important performance indicators, it surpasses the characteristics of mineral wool: it has low thermal conductivity (better than that of mineral wool), it is perfectly cut, it is easy to install in the niches of rafter legs, and it has a minimum weight. It does not absorb moisture, for it there is no need to install moisture and vapor protection, which has a positive effect on the cost of attic rooms. In addition, it is one of the cheapest roofing materials. As for combustibility, modern types have special additives, now the material does not support open combustion. This means that a short circuit cannot set fire to the foam. The amount of evaporation of chemical compounds does not exceed the established norms, and the insulation itself is additionally covered with finishing materials, which further reduces the likelihood of negative consequences. Another advantage is that foam plastic can be used to insulate roofs not only from the inside, but also from the outside, laying it under the roofing.
	Like polystyrene, it is recommended to use it if necessary to insulate the roof from the outside. In terms of physical parameters, it does not differ in any way from polystyrene, except for increased values ​​of mechanical strength. But for roof insulation, strength is not critical. Disadvantages - high cost.
	During the insulation of structures, it is blown with the help of special equipment. During solidification, polyurethane foam expands and hardens. The most unfortunate material from all points of view. To achieve a thickness of 10-15 cm, it is necessary to repeat the treatment three times, it is expensive, time-consuming and economically inefficient. Experienced builders are strongly discouraged.
	A fairly new and rare insulation, it is made from pulp production waste or waste paper. Only one thing can be attributed to the advantages - the absence of harmful compounds. All actual performance characteristics are much worse than the heaters described above in the table.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Before deciding on the choice of insulation, it is recommended to carefully compare the objective characteristics of the materials, while not paying much attention to the marketing moves of manufacturers, but trusting independent information.

And one more very important point: if the thickness of the insulation does not correspond to the climatic zone, then you should not expect a great effect from such insulation. No need to save, it is better to make the thickness with a margin of about five centimeters.

The situation when the attic is equipped, redoing the cold attic is not uncommon. If at the same time the roof is re-covered, then there are no problems with insulation. The structure of the roofing pie is done as it should be - with a waterproofing membrane and a ventilated under-roofing gap for weathering moisture from the insulation.

When reconstructing a roof without replacing the roof, a situation often arises that its construction does not allow insulation to be carried out using standard technology. That is, it is impossible to immediately take and lay heat-insulating mats between the rafter legs. This happens in the following cases:

Missing waterproofing membrane- sheet roofing is simply laid on the crate. With such a structure, the insulation will not be protected from possible leaks and condensation on the inner surface of the roofing (especially critical for a metal roof). But it is also impossible to directly fix the waterproofing membrane to the crate from the inside - to create a ventilated gap.

A vapor barrier film is laid on the rafters or battens and there is no counter batten for ventilated gap. This option, although it has an additional layer, is actually no different from the previous one. There is only one difference here - in addition to the counter-lattice for laying the membrane, it is necessary to make a slot along the ridge in the vapor barrier film so that there is where to vent moisture from the insulation.

A vapor barrier film can be laid between the roof and the insulation. Moreover, the Geks company (manufacturer) considers vapor barrier to be the best choice for protecting insulation from condensate on a metal roof. But in this case, the structure of the pie has - the first for ventilation of the roof, the second - for ventilation of the insulation.

Both options for the “wrong” roofing pie can be corrected without dismantling the roof.

Insulation of the roof, which does not have a counter-lattice and waterproofing

To secure the waterproofing membrane from the inside (attic side), you need two bars on each side of the rafter leg and one in the middle between the rafters.

The first pair of bars is attached to the rafters close to the roofing, the central bar is attached parallel to them to the crate - they are responsible for creating a ventilation gap between the membrane and the roof. Necessary ensure air supply into this space through the cornice overhang.

The thickness of the bar can be 3-5 cm and should be sufficient to "hold" the fasteners - these are just spacer bars. And the width of the bar is chosen based on the requirements for the size of the air gap, so this size should not be less than 4 cm.

After installing the spacers, a waterproofing membrane is laid between the rafters. In a standard situation, it is laid over the rafters from the bottom up in horizontal stripes with overlapping joints, here the laying is carried out “vertically” - one strip between each pair of rafters.

The width of the strip should be greater than the pitch of the rafters with a “margin” of 5-10 cm on both sides, and it should sag slightly in the middle (but not more than 2 cm).

Installation of waterproofing is carried out in two stages. First, the membrane is pre-attached to the rafters with a stapler. Then it is finally fixed with another pair of bars, nailing them to the rafter legs below the distance bar.

After that, thermal insulation is laid between the rafters. If it needs to be laid in two layers, then an internal counter-lattice is mounted to the rafter legs.

Then comes the laying of the vapor barrier and the installation of the crate for the attic.

Roof insulation, which does not have a counter-lattice, but has a vapor barrier

The difference between this version of the roofing pie device is that when the roof leaks, water will not get on the insulation. In addition, if the vapor barrier has an anti-condensate surface, then it will “bind” part of the condensate that forms when the atmospheric air cools.

But this one, as well as excess moisture in the insulation, must be vented from the under-roof space. And for this you need a konrobrete with a vertical arrangement of the ventilation gap.

In this case, the waterproofing membrane can be fixed a little easier than in the previous case:

1. Between each pair of rafters, parallel to them, three or four slats are stuffed (depending on the distance between the rafter legs). The thickness of the rail is chosen equal to the size of the air gap (usually 4-5 cm).
2. A waterproofing membrane is laid between the rafter legs. It can be laid both in one strip vertically, and in pieces of panels horizontally with an overlap of the top sheet over the bottom one by 15-20 cm (installation must be carried out from top to bottom).
3. The waterproofing membrane is fixed with a stapler to each rail and along the rafter legs.

Laying of heat-insulating material and vapor barrier takes place according to standard technology.

Insulation of the U-shaped contour of the attic

If the roof is high and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house is large, then the attic can be equipped without inclined walls - with the allocation of a U-shaped contour, the thermal insulation of which will not come into contact with the roof.

In this case, behind the attic contour there will be an ordinary cold attic with its own ventilation through the eaves and ridge vents.
In fact, this is a technology for warming a frame house, but inside the attic.

Attic ceiling insulation:

1. To the upper puffs, which act as beams of the ceiling, boards or slats of the draft ceiling are hemmed.
2. Fasten from the side of the room. The strips are overlapped and all joints are glued.
3. From the "attic" side of the attic, insulation is laid between the puff beams (if necessary, in two layers).
4. A waterproofing membrane is spread over the insulation. It is required if it is not included in the roofing pie. If the roof has waterproofing, but the mineral wool mats are not laminated, then ordinary fiberglass can be laid on them as a windscreen.
5. On the inside, a counter-lattice is attached over the vapor barrier. It is needed so that there is an air gap necessary for the functioning of a vapor barrier with an anti-condensate or reflective surface.

Attic wall insulation:

1. From the outside of the racks, a waterproofing windproof membrane is attached.
2. In the event that the attic contour from the side of the roof is sheathed with plywood or OSB, counter-battens bars are nailed to the posts over the waterproofing.
3. Thermal insulation is laid between the racks.
4. On the inside of the racks, a vapor barrier is laid in a continuous layer. Glued with a tape adjoining with a vapor barrier of the ceiling and floor.
5. Mount the crate for the inner lining.

If none of the options suits, then the roof can be dismantled, and waterproofing and insulation can be carried out using standard technology.

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The problem of energy saving is always relevant for homeowners, so they try by all available means to reduce heat losses, which, as you know, occur as a result of poor thermal insulation of the roof, walls and basement. Houses built a long time ago usually have an attic, which is used as a place to store old and unnecessary things. In newly built buildings, the owners now prefer to equip a mansard roof (see photo), the premises of which can be used not only for household needs, but also as an additional living room. It is advisable to figure out how to insulate the attic roof from the inside without making popular mistakes.

If it is possible to do the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside of the house with your own hands, then the work outside the building should be entrusted to specialists.

The choice of insulation

The solution to the question as to how and what is better to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the roof structure of the building and on the weather conditions of the area in which it is located. You can get acquainted with the basic requirements and norms regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones in SNiP 23-02-2003.

Today, the domestic construction market offers a huge selection of materials of various characteristics and cost for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult to make a choice for a person who has never done such work before, but it is possible if you first study the information, do it yourself or consult with professionals or acquaintances who are competent in this matter.

Styrofoam. A lot of homeowners are attracted to such insulation as polystyrene because of its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly humid. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, gaps appear between them and the foam, through which the cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to settle in this heater.

Extruded polystyrene foam. No less popular insulation than polystyrene and in its characteristics is very similar to it. Only the technology is different, according to which it is performed from the inside with foam. Expanded polystyrene plates are laid on top of the rafters so that there are no gaps. The material in the form of plates is produced with stepped joints or according to the type of construction “thorn in the groove”. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and the total cost of the work depends on the size of the room.

Glass wool.

The technology according to which the roof of the attic is insulated with one's own hands using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself differs in structure:

• glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, so it is more durable, resilient and has better soundproofing characteristics;
• the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
• glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate the attic with our own hands, you can use several heat-insulating materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the gaps between the rafters, it is desirable to use mineral wool, and lay polystyrene foam on top under the roof on the truss structure.

This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

• since ecowool consists of 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is an environmentally friendly material;
• in terms of heat-insulating parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
• the use of ecowool allows you to qualitatively fill all the elements of the structure, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
• the composition of the insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of fungus and mold on wooden parts;
• ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
• during operation does not lose its original volume.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed heaters. To insulate the attic with polyurethane foam, special equipment (portable units) is required. With a weight of 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 "squares" of area. Additional is not needed. The coating fills the existing voids and gaps to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the attic insulation is completed with polyurethane foam, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam for thermal insulation is used infrequently is its high cost.

Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproofing properties. On one or both sides, the foamed polyethylene is covered with high-quality aluminum.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

• ecological cleanliness;
• low thermal conductivity;
• the closed system of air bubbles of polyethylene foam prevents the penetration of steam.

Attic wall insulation

Now the attic is initially planned during the development of the house project, so its shape depends on the roof structure, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, a gable roof is created in individual buildings, since it allows you to maximize the use of the attic area. Often, interior walls for a room on the roof are not made at all. When the gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then the internal walls of the attic are erected additionally to a height of 1-1.2 meters. At the same time, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.

Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used for thermal insulation of the roof:

Attic floor insulation

To insulate the floor, various heat insulators are used. Materials are placed between the lags or on the subfloor. To insulate the flooring with fiberboards, first two layers of roofing material are laid, and then two rows of fibreboards. A clean floor is laid on top.

Sometimes they use a long-known method - insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 cm layer on the roofing material in the intervals between the lags. So that mice do not settle in the heat-insulating layer, sawdust should be mixed with lime. It is bad that such a heater refers to flammable materials.

Attic ceiling insulation

When using ecowool, a crate is specially mounted on a false ceiling, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (more: ""). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the mounted roof from the inside, and the hemmed ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulation of the attic gable from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene are used. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using foam or polyurethane foam.