How to insulate the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered? Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof from the inside.

In contrast to the thermal insulation of ordinary walls, it is much more difficult to insulate the attic, since its enclosing structures are partly or entirely roof slopes. It turns out that the same inclined structure should perform several functions - to protect from precipitation, wind and cold. Therefore, it is worth understanding thoroughly how to properly insulate the attic floor of a private house, so that every homeowner can do it with his own hands. Carrying out technology thermal insulation works described in this material.

The better to insulate the attic

Since we are talking about insulation mansard roof above living quarters, the choice of material will also affect the way the work is done. In addition, various types of glass wool are immediately excluded from the list of possible heaters; it is prohibited for use from inside residential buildings. The rest of the list looks like this:

mineral or ecowool in rolls and slabs;
Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam (PPU).

In fact, there is only one technology for insulating a sloping mansard roof and it consists in laying a heater between rafter boards. Another thing is how the overall pie will look when using this or that material, there are differences. Hardest to produce proper insulation attic from the inside with mineral wool, because it has the unpleasant property of absorbing moisture. But because of its absolute incombustibility, mineral wool continues to be popular.

Ecowool or basalt fiber in slabs is convenient for installation, while rolled materials need to be cut into separate mats in order to insert them obliquely between the rafters. But there is another point: of all the listed heaters, mineral wool has the worst thermal insulation properties, which automatically increases the thickness of its layer. But this parameter is limited by the width of the rafter board (it happens from 100 to 250 mm). Then the output looks like this:

For reference. The discussion of materials for insulating the walls of the attic applies equally to both wooden and brick houses with a pitched roof.

While mineral wool needs to be protected from moisture during insulation, foamed polymers like polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are practically impervious to water vapor. If the foam still somehow absorbs moisture in small proportions, then the other listed polymers are airtight in this respect. This greatly simplifies the process of insulating the attic floor, which is useful for people who want to do it themselves. In addition, polystyrene and foam plastic retain their thermal insulation characteristics.

Of course, polyurethane foam is considered the best insulation, which is applied by spraying. It is absolutely not afraid of moisture, can withstand fire for some time and has the highest thermal resistance. One thing is bad: the application technology, although simple, is carried out using special machines, so it will not be possible to insulate the attic with PPU on your own. You will have to pay a lot of money to a specialized company. But about this material there are only positive reviews.

For reference. Polystyrene foamed in various ways is a poor sound insulator, this must be taken into account when using it. At the same time, mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and is more preferable in urban conditions.

Each of the materials has many supporters and opponents, composing many tales, so it is not easy for an ignorant person to choose the best insulation on the roof of a residential attic. Therefore, it is worth first studying how to properly perform the insulation process, then a lot will become clear. More information can be obtained by watching the video:

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation

The roofing material of the attic does not protect against the cold and has almost zero thermal resistance. In addition, all the heat from the house is collected under the ceiling of the attic floor, so regulatory requirements in terms of its insulation, they are as rigid as to the roof itself. For example, for the Moscow region of Russia, the thermal insulation of the roof must have a heat transfer resistance of at least 5 m2 °C / W.

For reference. Standard values thermal resistance - reference, they are easy to find in the relevant documentation or the Internet in relation to the region of residence.

For example, you want to insulate the attic of a house in the Moscow region with mineral wool. It is necessary to take its thermal conductivity coefficient (0.045 W / m2 ° C) and substitute it into the formula for calculating the thickness:

δ = R x λ, where:

δ is the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, m;
λ is the thermal conductivity of the insulation, W/m2 °C.

It turns out δ \u003d 5 x 0.045 \u003d 0.225 m or 225 mm. This is the minimum value, but it is better to lay the thickness of the mineral wool layer at 250 mm.

Warming technology

As we have already said, the insulation of the pitched roof and attic walls is carried out from the inside by filling the gaps between the rafters with heat-insulating material. To better understand the scope of work, it is worth looking at general scheme attic in section:

Here, mineral wool is used as a heater, which is cut into a size 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the rafters. This is done so that the plates are inserted tightly and held on their own. But before putting them in place, it is necessary to protect the wool from moisture entering it from the outside, for which a special film must be laid under the roofing - a diffusion membrane. The general "pie" of insulation is shown in the diagram:

What's the catch here. Between waterproofing and roofing (in this case- metal tiles) it is necessary to leave a ventilation opening - a vent with a width of 30 to 50 mm. It passes under the entire surface of the roof of a wooden house and serves to circulate air that enters there from below, from under the overhang. Air comes out from above, on the ridge, as shown in the figure:

The tasks of the ventilation opening:

remove moisture and condensate from the under-roof space;
prevent overheating of the attic space in summer, when the metal tile is strongly heated by the sun.

Below the opening is a special waterproofing film- a diffusion membrane nailed to the rafters with planks of the counter-lattice with outer side. Its peculiarity is that the film does not let water through, but at the same time it is vapor permeable. That is, in the event of a leak, mineral wool is protected by a membrane from water, but it can release moisture through it into the ventilation opening. From below, the insulation is also protected, only with a vapor-tight film. Thus, cotton wool will not absorb moisture from the room.

All these troublesome measures are necessary so that do-it-yourself attic insulation with mineral wool can last as long and efficiently as possible. After all, unlike a conventional roof, it will be difficult to track the state of the “pie” of thermal insulation, since it is hidden behind the interior decoration.

The remaining enclosing structures of the attic - the floors and vertical walls of the gables are insulated in traditional ways. The pediments of stone houses should be sheathed with insulation from the outside using a dry or wet method, and wooden ones can also be inside, stuffing bars on the walls. Cotton wool is laid between them using the same technology, using protective films.

Advice. Since the foam still has the ability to absorb moisture in small quantities, then right decision it will be laid using the same technology as the mineral wool. Although in practice it is often used without any vapor barrier, inserting the plates between the rafters and fixing it with mounting foam.

Thermal insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam

Taking advantage of the fact that foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam repel water by 100%, you can not use film or foil from the inside when insulating the attic. It is optimal to lay the insulation in 2 layers, for which they take ordinary plates and with a selected quarter. The first are tightly inserted between the rafters flush with the inner surface of the board. The second ones are laid on top, fastening to the rafters and the first layer with the help of self-tapping screws.

When installing the first layer of insulation, remember that you need to provide a ventilation gap and lay a diffusion membrane. By the way, it is necessary in any case, even if the insulation is placed on the floors of the attic, and the roof is not insulated at all. Waterproofing always protects the interior from wind blowing and water ingress.

Two layers of expanded polystyrene not only insulate the attic well, but also protect wooden structures from moisture that occurs inside the room. How to do this is shown in the video:

Conclusion

When insulating the attic floor, it is necessary to remember all the nuances and strictly follow the technology. It is especially important to scrupulously treat the laying of hydro and vapor barrier, carefully sealing all joints with double-sided construction tape. Not only the service life of the insulation depends on this, but also all wooden structures, which can also suffer from constant exposure to moisture.

Proper insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round, in addition, it helps to significantly save on heating and electricity costs for heating the building as a whole.

Attic insulation options depend on at what stage of house construction. In the article, we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the better it is to insulate the premises, and we will offer step-by-step instructions on how to do the attic insulation from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate the attic floor

How to properly insulate the floor on reinforced concrete floors

To insulate the floor, first we clean the stove from debris and dust, close up cracks and irregularities cement-sand mortar. Next, we carry out waterproofing of the slab, coating method bituminous mastic on 2 layers, or we lay roofing material, the joints must be overlapped and hermetically glued blowtorch- this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Pore insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600 * 600 mm or more, from reinforcement with a cross section of up to 6 mm.

The fittings are poured with a cement screed, after which you can start finishing the floor, the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the logs

How to make floor insulation on a wooden floor

Before insulating the wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a refractory compound and antiseptics. Further, for insulation, logs are stuffed from a bar of 100 * 100 mm, in increments of 500-600 mm. The logs are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, a heater is laid very tightly between the beams, all gaps should be sealed with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always overlapping by 150 mm. Can be attached on top sheet material: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which it is laid fine finish, or lay a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate the ceiling in the attic

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose, in view of severe frosts, or this is required by features, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, we install a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell of 600 * 600 mm. Inside the crate we place a heater, mineral wool. The crate is sewn up with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can hem the ceiling with facing materials.

Crate for insulation of the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated with slab materials, then they are mounted on top of the crate. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the crate does not sag from the weight of the insulation.

What insulation to choose for the attic

The question of how best to insulate the attic from the inside is very acute, and see, reviews on the forums vary dramatically, each material has its undoubted advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Attic foam insulation is the most a budget option keep the heat in the room. To insulate the attic space, a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm is required. It is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, gets moldy, and besides, rodents use it to organize their moves throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has passed the test of time, the question of whether it is worthwhile to insulate the attic with foam plastic, the reviews differ from “by no means” to “only foam plastic”, remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which describe in detail how to perform attic insulation with foam plastic, the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, is performed outside the building. Despite the fact that many consider this material to be foam, they chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its thermal insulation characteristics during freezing and thawing. Expanded polystyrenes have different densities, the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation, the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, it is also deformed by ultraviolet rays, therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate the attic with your own hands with extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulation of the attic with penofol is financially costly, relative to polystyrene. This is new roll insulation, which is a competitor for mineral wool. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. The huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying a heat-insulating layer, a violation of technology leads to a deterioration in the heat-insulating characteristics of the insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Thermal insulation, made by spraying polyurethane foam, has no joints, and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary training attic to thermal insulation, the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters and more. The insulation is sprayed directly on the walls, floor, ceiling special equipment. PPU is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but it does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% of antiseptics and flame retardant additives. When using this material for attic insulation, it is necessary to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality attic insulation with ecowool, a layer about 200 mm thick should be applied. This is an eco-friendly insulation, lays on the surface like papier-mâché, manually or mechanized way, does not form joints. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. The installation of a heat-insulating layer requires knowledge of the application technology and professional skills.

Warming with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to the surface

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep the attic warm. Depending on the composition and density of wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in a special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this, its thermal insulation characteristics decrease, and the moisture-saturated insulation becomes noticeably heavier, which gives significant loads on the rafters and the attic roof. When insulated with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left, it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on the design features of the building. When working with mineral wool, wear a protective suit and goggles.

Attic insulation, video instruction on how to properly lay a heat-insulating layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to leave the old grandfather and almost free way insulation. Device heat-insulating cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly way of warming, time-tested. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern heaters, in addition, it is a fire hazardous method of insulation. But if this country house, and according to the project, the attic is cold unheated room, then this method of warming is quite justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern heaters, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer

Now the market is represented by a huge selection of insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is best for the attic depends on which room should be insulated: if it is a warm attic, then basalt wool, polyurethane foam, and if cold - foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing a heater is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that universal heaters cannot be in principle, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We tried to find the most useful tips for you on how to insulate the attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of the thermal insulation device with each specific material.

The subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to properly install insulation?

Thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, a large role in the effectiveness of insulation is played by how correctly the material was laid.

The material should be laid in two layers, where the second overlaps the seams and joints of the first.
The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the plates of the second layer will get bends, which leads to a loss of joint density.
The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between the rafter legs. So the plates will lie flat, with full adjacency, the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will turn out to be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

With the insulation of the attic with slab materials, there are usually no problems - they stand between the slats of the counter-batten by surprise. Rolled types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate the attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and a synthetic cord:

We fill small nails along the edges of the rails of the counter-batten.
The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
The material is inserted into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one rail to another.

We work like this until we finish the insulation of the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If a internal walls residential attic broken roof made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside, you have another task: the placement of insulating material. You do not need to do this directly along the bevels of the roof. The insulation is placed on the shields that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, with reverse side shields are hemmed with scraps of boards. Wall insulation from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is performed in this way.

Is it possible to replace the steam protection of the floor with moisture protection?

Usually, the attic floor insulation cake in the country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of installing moisture protection instead of vapor protection seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The heater works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation performance decreases with increasing humidity levels.

If we fill the floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When moisture protection is on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no way out for moisture. We get: the lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold under it.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulation of the attic floor from the inside is never complete without the installation of vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
The positioning of ordinary fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - with the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side - into the room.
Installation of any vapor barrier cloths is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the bevels of the roof and along the gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation pie be?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type roofing material, and not on what you are going to insulate the attic from the inside:

Bituminous tiles, rolled materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, we leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes during attic insulation with polystyrene foam?

You can not use dowel-mushrooms during the insulation of the attic with foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but the multiple cold bridges resulting from the process increase heat loss.
When thinking about how to insulate the attic with foam, remember that for wooden surfaces this material is not suitable.
Should be avoided polyurethane foam to eliminate gaps between foam boards. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put together the cut parts - just fit them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag?

Many are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true of slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better already because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool, this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage basalt insulation– absence of formaldehydes in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to stop at basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation turned out to be greater than the height of the crate?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the crate, in no case should it be crushed. The heat-preserving properties of the material directly depend on its density: the smaller it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the pediment of the attic without redoing the crate? Just increase its thickness by stuffing the slats of the desired section on top. They do the same with the bevels of the roof, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulation of the insulated attic floor?

When deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, we often doubt whether it is necessary to take care of the hydro and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this can be omitted. However, do not forget that warm air tends to rise up, and moisture also rises with it. That is the floor last floor receives moisture from the whole house. Therefore, in winter version attic layers of insulation must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

Roof equipment with insulation is one of the most milestones roof construction, which is designed for long-term operation.

External insulation

Such a process is not difficult and is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Primarily rafters from the underside hemmed with plywood or edged board.
Thereafter laying a layer of thermal insulation. The surface of the layer and joints are glued with foil tape. It is very important to lay the vapor barrier on the right side, because this material is able to function in one direction.
Next, the insulation material is laid. In this case, free space should be avoided, it is necessary that the insulation lies tightly.
The next step is layout of the hydrobarrier from above roof structure . Bonding is also carried out with a specialized tape.
Penultimate make ventilation gaps. This process is carried out using a rail, which is placed on top of the hydrobarrier. The height of the rail is selected depending on the parameters of the roofing. If the roof is of a wavy type, then the standard of the rail is 20-30 mm, if the roof is of a flat type, then 50 mm.
latest carry out the installation of the crate and lay the roof.

Considering that the material for it does not have protection from precipitation, the work should be carried out only in clear weather.

External insulation

Mansard roof insulation from the inside

At first glance, you can decide that this method of insulation is more reliable and practical due to the fact that precipitation does not fall on the material, because. protected by roofing.

However, this method has disadvantages:

It is very inconvenient to carry out the installation of most of the material from the bottom side up, and to fix roll materials in some places it is not possible;
The rafter system contains elements to reinforce the structure, the interface points of which are not protected by heat-insulating material.

Stages of installing a heat-insulating layer internally:

Installation starts from the bottom of the roof and a film with waterproofing properties is laid out with an overlap secured with adhesive tape. In places located near the walls, the coating should have a larger margin, which is adjusted after the completion of the entire process.
Equip the structure with counter rails, which are attached to the truss system with nails. This is necessary to ensure the ventilation gap and a snug fit of the layers to each other.
Thereafter installing insulation.
The last step is vapor barrier equipment, which is fixed with overlapping construction brackets.

CAREFULLY!

It is not recommended to seal cracks and gaps with construction foam. To avoid unnecessary spacing between the sheets, it is best to lay them with a margin of 5 m.

Internal insulation

Conclusion

Which installation method to choose for arranging a heat-insulating structure for a mansard roof largely depends on the individual parameters of the structure. You should initially study in full all the nuances and conditions.

Useful video

In this, you will learn how to properly insulate a mansard roof:

In contact with

To date, the insulation of the mansard roof is very popular in construction.

The construction of houses with mansard roofs is very relevant in the suburban area and is widespread.

Attic houses are not only very presentable in appearance, but also provide an opportunity to increase usable area from within.

Their only drawback is the scheme of full contact of the walls and ceiling of the attic with the street, which creates certain problems with thermal insulation.

This can cause a loss of about 30% of heat and create condensation from the inside.

This is due to the fact that warm air, rising, will collide with a cold roof, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of fungi, mold, and possibly rot.

Therefore, if you do not want to have all these problems, then it is better to take care of thermal insulation in advance. The article tells how to make the insulation of the attic roof correctly.

Varieties of heaters

Mineral wool (a convenient material that is slightly compressed during installation, after which it straightens itself and fits exactly into the nest);
Polyurethane foam (sprayed directly onto the surface);
Ecowool (the content of the antiseptic in the composition prevents damage to the insulation and wood);
Styrofoam ( lightweight material, which does not weigh down the roof).

Polyfoam is one of the most popular. Styrofoam is used to insulate pitched and flat roofs, and most importantly, it is ideal for ceilings in the attic floor.

Styrofoam insulation can be carried out both on an open roof and after laying the roofing.

Why styrofoam?

The material has undeniable advantages, thanks to which it occupies one of the leading positions in the market.

Here are the main ones:

Polyfoam has low absorbency, so moisture simply flows down it without getting inside the material;
It has a light weight, which significantly reduces the load from the inside on the roof structure;
Quite easy to install;
Has a low cost;
Conforms to accepted heat conduction standard.

If you decide to use foam, then you should not forget about the two main disadvantages, such as vapor impermeability and high flammability.

You can avoid them if you good ventilation attic and adhere to established fire safety standards.

Room preparation

Before you buy materials and start warming the house, you need to study and prepare the room from the inside as best as possible, especially if you plan to do all the work yourself.

For this you need:

If you plan to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands, then when choosing foam sheets, do not forget about some important points:

It is necessary to choose the right size of the sheets so that during the installation of the elements, their joints are as small as possible;
Proper insulation of the house is carried out with polystyrene foam along a broken line, the thickness of which is at least 10 mm .;
The higher the density of the material, the greater its strength under mechanical stress and the better the thermal insulation;
Read the specifications on the package. Buy only quality material.

Remember: the foam has good sound conductivity and it is better to buy an additional layer of special sound insulation (at least 5 cm thick) and install it from the inside of the decorative sheathing.

At correct device do-it-yourself installation, all external sounds will be absorbed by the soundproofing layer, and will not disturb the peace and quiet in your home.

Mounting technology

The insulation of the mansard roof from the inside is quite simple and its scheme is quite suitable for properly installing the material with your own hands.

First you need to lay the waterproofing film.

That's right, use a special roofing film (Izospan is most often taken), with a broken membrane structure that releases steam only in one direction, from inside the room to the outside.

The film is laid on top of the rafters across, without stretching along the entire length of the roof (do-it-yourself device assumes a possible slight sagging).

Make sure that a smooth water vapor barrier is on the outside. The next strip of film is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, and special adhesive tape is used to glue the joints.

When installing with your own hands, remember that an air gap must be left between the layer of films and the crate.

To do this, five-centimeter bars are nailed on the rafters on top of the film, boards for the crate are installed on the bars, and only after that, the roofing is laid.

Styrofoam sheets are laid between the rafters, excluding any gaps. You can cut them with a clerical or ordinary long knife using a metal ruler.

Sheets with insulation are attached to the rafters using auxiliary rails or polystyrene glue.

If the rafters round section, then fixing with glue is not enough.

Proper fastening is done by filing from the boards, which will hold the foam layer in several places.

After laying, voids may remain along the broken line, they can be filled with construction foam.

Useful advice: to increase the service life of foam sheets, experts recommend using, in addition to glue, mounting screws and dowels.

This fastening prolongs the shelf life and reliability of the design.

If you do not remove the space along the broken line, then cold air will penetrate there and condensate will accumulate from the inside, causing smudges and rotting processes.

To exclude this, you can lay sheets with foam in 2 layers also along a broken line, covering the lower joints with the top layer. The top and bottom layers are glued together.

For additional soundproofing of the space, soundproofing mats made of fibrous material are used.

It should be remembered that the fiber absorbs moisture well, so it must be covered with a vapor barrier anti-condensation film.

The film is overlapped along a broken line, while gluing the joints and fixing it on the rafters (filing), construction or furniture stapler.

With the help of wooden bars or profiles that serve as guides, the skin is attached.

When choosing their thickness, remember that it is necessary to leave a space for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm. For sheathing, they are mainly used natural materials where condensation cannot form.

The attic in the house has its advantages and disadvantages. Which? About it read here. As shown by the voting results ( see results here) a house with an attic attracts about 50% of readers.

Attic insulation work is carried out either from above before roofing installation either from below after the house is protected from rain.

The first option - from above, is more convenient in installation, and allows you to work faster and better.

In the second option - from below, you can postpone the work and expenses for arranging the attic for later.

The designs of the insulated roof in both cases are somewhat different.

Attic insulation from above

In this article, we will consider the use of steam-wind-moisture protective membranes in the design of the insulated roof of the attic floor using the Izospan brand protective materials system as an example. You can read about the materials of this system in the article. "Films and membranes steam-wind-hydroprotective".

The device of the warmed roof of the attic

1. Roofing
2. Windproof film Izospan AS, AM
3. Counter rail
4. Insulation
5. Vapor barrier Izospan B
6. Rafter
7. Interior decoration
8. Lathing

Scheme of protecting the attic insulation from wind, moisture and condensate in Fig. 2

Wind-moisture protection of the attic insulation

Fig.2. To protect the attic insulation from wind, moisture and condensate, a ventilated gap is arranged, and films and Izospan membranes are laid from below and above.

Why protect the insulation from the wind?

Mineral wool insulation, which is usually used for roof insulation, has an open porous structure.

The air moving in the ventilated gap easily penetrates the insulation, blowing heat out of it. The effectiveness of thermal insulation due to air infiltration can be almost halved.

In addition, the air moving under the action of the wind in the gap tears off and carries away the particles of insulation. The weathering of the insulation occurs - over time, its density and thickness decrease, the insulation becomes a source of dust that can penetrate the house.

To prevent these processes, the insulation from above, from the side of the ventilated gap, is covered with a windproof vapor-permeable material.

In addition, the wind-moisture protective membrane (item 2 in Fig. 1) protects the insulation and load-bearing structural elements from under-roofing condensate, snow and atmospheric moisture, which can be blown into the gaps of the roofing or penetrate at the joints of the roof sheets due to capillary suction.

The wind and hydroprotective membrane should not prevent the release of steam from the insulation (vapor permeability is not less than 750 g/m2 per day).

It is recommended to use vapor-permeable roofing membranes Izospan AM or Izospan AS in the construction of insulated roofs as waterproofing and wind protection. Materials Izospan AM and Izospan AS placed directly on the insulation without ventilation gap between them.

Izospan AM and Izospan AS are not intended for use as the main or temporary, for the period of installation, roofing.
Izospan AM and Izospan AS are laid with the white side to the insulation.
When installing an insulated roof, Izospan AM (Izospan AS) is rolled out and cut directly over the insulation. Installation is carried out by overlapping horizontal panels, starting from the bottom of the roof. Overlapping of panels along horizontal and vertical joints - at least 15 cm.

The stretched material can be additionally fixed to the rafters with staples using a construction stapler.

On top of the material, wooden antiseptic counter-rails 4x5 cm are fastened vertically along the rafters on nails or self-tapping screws. The place of vertical overlap or junction of two horizontal panels should be pressed against the rafters with a counter rail.

A crate or a solid plank flooring is mounted along the counter-rails, depending on the type of roofing.

For weathering water vapor and under-roof condensate ventilation gap must be provided between the outer side of the material Izospan AM (Izospan AS) and the roof covering for a counter-rail thickness of 4-5 cm.

In addition, to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space ventilation holes are provided in the lower part of the roof and in the ridge area for air circulation.

The material Izospan AM (Izospan AS) is fastened in a taut position so that water can freely slide over its surface. The bottom edge should provide natural drainage of moisture from the surface of the membrane into the gutter.

Attic insulation vapor barrier

The vapor barrier film (item 5 in Fig. 1) performs several functions at once:

Protects the insulation from the penetration of water vapor into it from the attic room. From the article "Dew Point, Vapor Barrier and Air Gap" you can find out why, without a vapor barrier, the insulation will accumulate moisture and collapse.
In addition, vapor barrier performs another function - it reduces the air permeability of the attic enclosing structures, thereby reducing heat loss.
The material protects the living space from the penetration of microfibers (dust) of the insulation.

Izospan B used as a vapor barrier in insulated roofs of operated attics with various types roofing.
When installing an insulated roof, the Izospan V vapor barrier is mounted on the inside of the insulation on the rafters or on the rough sheathing using a construction stapler or galvanized nails. Installation is carried out from the bottom up with overlapping horizontal panels with an overlap along the horizontal and vertical joints of at least 15 cm.

When decorating a room with clapboard (plywood, decorative panels etc.) the vapor barrier is fixed along the frame with vertical antiseptic wooden slats 4x5 cm, and when finishing with drywall - with galvanized profiles.

The installation of the material is carried out with a snug fit with the smooth side to the insulation, the rough side down. The interior decoration of the room is attached to the rack frame or galvanized profiles with a ventilation gap of 4-5 cm.

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, it is recommended to fasten the sheets of the Izospan B material together with the Izospan KL or SL connecting tape. Adjacent points of Izospan materials to wooden, concrete and other surfaces are glued with Izospan ML proff adhesive tape.

Instead of Izospan B, Izospan RS, Izospan C or Izospan DM can be used as a vapor barrier when installing an insulated roof. The installation scheme is similar.

Heat-reflecting vapor barrier of attic insulation

Can be used as a vapor barrier heat reflective vapor barrier: Izospan FS; Izospan FD and Izospan FX. The material is mounted on the inside of the insulation (on the rafters or on the rough sheathing using a construction stapler or galvanized nails) with a metallized surface towards the room.

There must be an air gap of 4-5 cm in front of the metallized surface of the membrane. Only in this case does reflection heat flow which increases the thermal resistance of the coating. Installation is carried out by overlapping horizontal panels, starting from the bottom of the roof. The overlap of the material along the horizontal and vertical joints is at least 15 cm (Izospan FX - butt).

Vapor barrier sealing

The vapor barrier prevents the insulation from getting wet. In places with vapor barrier defects, the insulation is saturated with moisture in winter. These places begin to freeze, fungus and mold appear on the walls, and the insulation itself is gradually destroyed.

Careful sealing of the vapor barrier layer - necessary condition long and reliable service life of thermal insulation and wooden roof parts. The same thing happens if water enters the insulation from above. But developers, due to a misunderstanding, often neglect the threat of wetting the insulation from below, from inside the room.

To wooden details the vapor barrier film is attached with staples with a stapler. It is glued to the metal profiles of the crate on Double-sided tape. The vapor barrier film is laid with a 10 cm overlap. The film should not be stretched too much, as the film changes its dimensions when the temperature changes.

The joints of the film are glued with adhesive tape made of a material with a similar coefficient of thermal expansion. Adjacencies of the film to the walls are more reliable press the strips with applying a sealant under them on the wall, as on rough surfaces adhesive tapes hold up badly.

It is more reliable to make film joints over a solid surface, where, in addition to gluing, the joints can be pressed with spacer bars, battens, fixed with brackets, etc. Passages through the vapor barrier of flue and ventilation pipes also tightly sealed. Don't neglect sealing plumbing piping and electrical wiring.

Choosing a heater for the attic

To insulate the attic, it is recommended to choose a fireproof mineral wool insulation. In summer, the roof can heat up to 60 degrees C, and in winter, up to 25% of heat can escape through a thin layer of damp insulation. Therefore, it is so important to lay a sufficient layer of insulation and prevent it from getting wet.

Modern energy saving standards recommend providing a heat transfer resistance of 4-5 m2 * K / W for the attic roof. In order to obtain the economically justified resistance to heat transfer required by the standards, it is necessary to lay a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 20 - 25 cm.
How to calculate the thickness of the attic insulation find out here.

The height of the roof rafters, as a rule, does not exceed 15-18 cm. Additional layers of thermal insulation are placed between the bars of the inner crate, or bars of the required height are nailed to the rafters from below.

Soundproofing attic

In addition to good thermal protection, the outer fencing of the attic should provide sufficient sound insulation of the attic rooms from airborne noise. People sleeping in the attic should not wake up from the impact of raindrops or hail on metal coating roofs.

Therefore, rather stringent requirements for sound insulation are imposed on the outer fence of the attic.

In accordance with current regulations, the airborne sound insulation index of the outer attic fence - Rw, must be at least 45 dB. As sound insulation from airborne noise, the same mineral wool insulation is used as for thermal insulation.

To achieve this indicator in the outer fences of the attic the thickness of mineral wool sound insulation must be at least 250 mm. If the thickness is less, then the sound insulation will not meet the standards. Thus, the thickness of the mineral wool thermal and sound insulation of the attic is selected based on two conditions: thermal insulation and sound insulation. The thickness of the larger of the two indicated is accepted.

Insulation of the attic when performing work from the inside

The design features of the attic insulation when performing work from the inside, under the mounted roofing, are clearly visible in the figure below (to zoom in, press the keys: Ctrl and + at the same time):

If overlap top floor in house made by wooden beams, then the floors and partitions in the attic should be light in weight and provide the necessary sound insulation. It is best in this case to make a floating floor with a dry screed of gypsum fiber sheets (GVLV) or other plates, as well as install soundproof frame partitions. Just such an option is shown in the figure.

Note, frame partition should cut through the attic sheathing as far as possible, and the base of the partition should be supported on the subfloor. Such a design will exclude the transmission of sound to the adjacent room bypassing the partition, through the finishing floor covering and attic sheathing.

If no special measures are taken, then soundproofing of attic rooms with framed outer walls, partitions, floors and ceilings will be insufficient.

If the floor of the upper floor in a house with an attic is made of reinforced concrete slabs or precast-monolithic of light blocks, then on such a floor it is more profitable to lay partitions made of bricks, as well as light gypsum or concrete building blocks.

Watch the video material, which clearly shows the thermophysical processes in the insulated roof and the basic installation rules. Watching the film, remember the need for wind protection of mineral wool insulation.

Next article:

Bituminous tiles. Mogtage, laying a soft roof

Previous article:

Heating scheme with a solid fuel boiler and a heat accumulator.

When building a mansard insulated roof, a vapor barrier is required. The absence of this layer in the roofing cake leads to wetting of the insulation and premature destruction. truss system.

A vapor barrier for a mansard roof protects the insulation and load-bearing wooden structures of the roof from saturation with wet vapors that appear as a result of human activity. This reduces the risk of fungus and mold in the under-roof space.

Do not confuse vapor barrier with superdiffusion membranes. The latter are laid on top of the insulation and play the role of waterproofing, but at the same time retain the ability to "breathe" and remove moisture from the surface of the insulation.

Roof vapor barrier materials are represented by several types of films:

Single layer films made of polyethylene or polypropylene. They are characterized by low strength, with careless handling the film is easy to tear.

Multilayer films- have higher strength and service life, can be additionally reinforced with a reinforcing layer.

Reflective films with a reflective foil layer - allows you to keep warm in the room and will be an excellent solution when installing a roof over a sauna, swimming pool or bathroom.

See also: how to properly insulate the roof of the house.

If financial possibilities allow, choose Delta Reflex or AirGuard Reflective films.
Delta DAWI GP is a little simpler and cheaper.
AirGuard Sd5 - suitable for houses with non-permanent residence. It has limited vapor permeability to remove residual moisture from the room.
Yutafol are Czech films from the Juta company. A lot of good reviews from the builders great choice in terms of price-quality ratio.
Ondutis and Izospan are an economy option.

Rules for installing a vapor barrier film

The vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation from the side of the attic and fixed with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are glued with mounting tape to ensure tightness.

When working with the material, the following tips should be considered:

Cloths can be laid in any direction in the presence of a rough filing of insulation. When mounting directly on the rafters, it is better to place the sheets horizontally.

The minimum overlap of one sheet to another should be 10 cm. Joints and junctions must be carefully glued.

When working with window openings it is necessary to provide for a deformation margin (fold). Next to windows, it is important to pay special attention to sealing the junctions and protecting the material from sunlight.

After fixing the vapor barrier, perform wooden crate rails 25 mm. It is needed for fastening the rough skin and the device for the ventilation gap. When finishing the ceiling and walls of the attic with drywall, a special metal profile is used instead of bars.

Competent and high-quality work on the attic vapor barrier will extend the life of the roof and save the owner of the house from costly repairs.

The roof structure is a complex system. It consists of several layers of dissimilar materials, each of which performs its own unique function.

To provide comprehensive protection buildings from influence environment quality performance is required for all installation work, as well as the correct choice of base and insulating materials. This whole process is briefly called roof insulation.

Standard Composition roofing cake includes:

Inner finishing layer;
The design of the crate;
vapor barrier material;
Counter-breech;
Thermal insulation (not applicable for a cold attic);
Waterproofing layer (read about chimney waterproofing here);
ventilation shafts or gaps;
Roof covering.

Why do you need roof insulation?

Why do you need a roof vapor barrier? Vapor barrier layer protects the roof from the penetration of water vapor into the thermal insulation. The fact is that insulating materials for the most part have porous structure, since the air contained in them performs the function heat insulator. When in contact with a colder environment, the vapor turns into condensate, which lingers in voids.

This can lead to a violation of the functionality of the heat-insulating material, as well as the occurrence of decomposition and decay processes in the summer. In winter, freezing water expands, thereby breaking bonds between cellular elements.

The main characteristic of a vapor barrier material is vapor permeability, depending on the density of the material. The values of this indicator can be found in the passport of the packaged building material.

Release form of vapor barrier films - roll. Vapor barrier can be made from various materials. Some of them have additional positive properties, increasing the efficiency of operation interior spaces building. Installing a vapor barrier on the roof is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, but it requires a careful approach and accuracy.

Types of vapor barrier

Single layer polyethylene films

They are made of low-density polyethylene, which provides an increased degree of steam penetration. This material often has defects associated with the ingress of foreign particles during manufacture. The cheapest type of insulating material.

Reinforced polyethylene films

Compared to single-layer polyethylene, reinforced vapor barrier has little greater thickness, as it includes a reinforcing frame. It is made up of polymer twisted threads located in mutually perpendicular directions. The mesh is fastened to the polyethylene base by warm pressing.

This technique does not affect the waterproofing and mechanical properties of the material, but may reduce the degree of vapor barrier.

Anti-condensation film

Made from two layers: smooth and hairy. The smooth layer is attached to the surface to be insulated. The fleecy layer is created from cellulose fibers. Steam, falling on such a surface, clings to the fibrous structure, thereby preventing moisture from flowing onto the underlying structures of pitched roofs. Excess water is removed together with air through the ventilated space.

Polymers with a foil layer

They are made of penofol or foamed polypropylene, covered with a thin layer of metal. Due to the reflective properties of metal surfaces, such a vapor barrier provides additional function protection against heat loss.

Membranes (film for roof vapor barrier)

Membrane vapor barrier materials are divided into five main classes:

Type A. It has increased stability to moisture and wind. It is laid between the roof covering and the heat-insulating layer. Manufacturing technology - spunbond. Such a vapor barrier does not allow moisture flowing through the cracks of the roofing material, as well as from the resulting condensate. The absence of a laminating layer allows the use of such membranes in roof structures with a slope over 35 degrees. To remove excess moisture, it is necessary to arrange ventilation holes from a double crate located between the membrane and the insulation.
Type AM. Unlike Type A has a multilayer structure. It is located between the insulation and the roof, to provide adequate protection from negative atmospheric influences. The most common is a three-layer construction, consisting of two layers of spunbond with a diffuse film located between them. It acts as a waterproofing, as it allows steam to pass through, but retains water. Laying is carried out directly on the heat-insulating layer, which reduces labor costs for the device of the ventilation gap.
Type B. Double layer material. Consists of a layer of vapor barrier film and spunbond. It is used to protect the insulation from the internal vapors of the building. Applies only in insulated roof structures.
Type C. It is made similarly to type B membranes. It has a stronger and thicker spunbond layer, which provides better protection of the insulation from moisture. Used in insulated and non-insulated, pitched and flat roofs.
Type D. Consists of polypropylene fabric, protected on one side with a laminating polymer coated. The structure of the material allows it withstand significant mechanical stress. This causes it to be laid between the insulation and the attic floor screed, as well as in non-insulated roof structures.

Which side is the vapor barrier for the roof?

The principle of installation of vapor barrier materials depends on which side is the layer responsible for the repulsion of water vapor:

We figured out which side to lay the vapor barrier on the roof, now we will analyze in detail how to properly lay the vapor barrier on the roof.

Vapor barrier for the roof: how to properly install using special technology

Laying the vapor barrier on the roof is carried out as follows:

Laying can be done vertically and horizontally. In the second option, the installation of the roof vapor barrier is carried out starting from ridge part roofs. Each subsequent strip is superimposed on the previous layer. with an overlap, the value of which should not exceed 10 cm.

CAREFULLY!

When joining elements, a mandatory seam sealing, which provides optimal protection against moisture ingress into the gap between them. Most often, gluing is done with one- or two-sided adhesive tape or adhesive tape. In roofs with a slope of up to 3o degrees, additional fixation with wooden planks.

To wooden truss elements the vapor barrier is attached with galvanized nails or a construction stapler.
When installing films and membranes near roof hatches, you need to use a special vapor barrier apron which is included as standard.
At the joints with ventilation pipes, film and membrane structures are wrapped down, wrapped around the pipe and tightly fixed with construction tape.
After laying the vapor barrier layer, it is necessary to nail wooden blocks. The rules for laying vapor barrier on the roof dictate the following rule - the step between the bars of the crate should be 500 mm. In this case, a ventilation gap is formed, and additional fastening of the vapor barrier layer is carried out. Now you know how to lay a vapor barrier on the roof, you can move on to the issue of waterproofing.
If the vapor barrier for the roof was damaged, then small cuts or holes can be stick with special tape for vapor barrier membranes.

Roofing pie scheme

Gluing joints with adhesive tape

The final version of the vapor barrier

NOTE!

A tightly stretched film is the key to good vapor barrier.

Hydro and vapor barrier of a roof - what is the difference?

Waterproofing materials also perform the function of protecting structural elements from moisture. However, unlike vapor barriers, they are not resistant to moisture-saturated air masses. That is, the steam leaving the premises will freely penetrate through the insulating layer. Therefore, when buying vapor barrier films and membranes, make sure that they are used correctly. Learn more about roof waterproofing here.

Useful video

And now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the video instruction on the vapor barrier of the roof:

Conclusion

Vapor barrier is the lightest and thinnest layer of the roof. But neglecting its device can nullify all material and physical efforts to create a high-quality roof. Therefore, do not neglect this important element, it will significantly increase the life of the entire building.

One of the most important tasks in the construction of the attic is to protect it from the formation of condensate, which can lead to damage to the roof system and thermal insulation material, as well as to increased costs for heating the house. Proper attic vapor barrier should be laid at the design stage. But if mistakes were made during the construction of the structure, then the volume of subsequent repair work, as well as measures for the rehabilitation of the attic, will only be commensurate with the new stage of construction.

Condensation mechanism

Before deciding which vapor barrier to choose for a mansard roof, it is necessary to understand the mechanism of formation and movement of water vapor. There are two principles of transfer and formation of condensate:

Diffusion is the movement of steam from an area with high pressure to a place with low pressure. In winter, such a transfer is carried out from a warm heated room to the side of cold outdoors, where there is a low partial pressure. In summer, the direction of the flow changes, and the steam from the warmer and more humid outdoor air is directed to the drier and cooler attic space. Mansard roof structures (waterproofing, insulation, vapor barrier, finishing) are on the way of the diffusion flow. It is the diffusion permeability of these materials that determines the amount of vapor that can penetrate due to diffusion. Since the layers of waterproofing and insulation practically do not resist the passage of steam, they can be ignored. In such a design, only qualities are important vapor barrier material. That is why it is so important to choose a high-quality vapor barrier for the attic.

Important! The diffusion flow is the stronger, the greater the difference in temperature and humidity between indoors and outdoors.

Convective is the movement of air and steam flows through loose layers of coatings and heat-insulating materials. The intensity of this transfer is directly related to the strength of the wind and the dimensions of the cracks. In modern roof systems, the function of air protection is performed by layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. They can completely eliminate the possibility of convective moisture transfer.

In actual roof operation conditions, both mechanisms of moisture penetration are present. At the same time, the intensity of the diffusion process is directly related to the choice of a good vapor barrier and pressure drop. In turn, the convective process is completely dependent on the quality of the insulation work and the use of sealing tapes and mastics.

Attention! When comparing the degree of wetting of roof structures during the diffuse and convective processes, we can say that the latter of them is much more dangerous, since at the same time, large quantity water vapor.

Consequences of wetting structures

The vapor barrier of the mansard roof is an important component of the design of the roofing pie. If we choose low-quality vapor barrier material or install it in violation of technology, then homeowners may face the following negative consequences of waterlogging the thermal insulation material:

The entire structure reduces the resistance to heat transfer. This leads to higher operating costs.
Mold and moisture can damage roof structures (both metal and wood).
Due to the increased air permeability of structures and the ingress of dust, the air quality in the house is reduced. The favorable microclimate and the comfort of living in attic rooms suffer significantly.

That is why, when arranging the roof structure and the roof itself, it is important not only to know which vapor barrier film is better, but also to properly install the material. Of particular danger from the point of view of poor-quality vapor barrier are loose overlaps of vapor barrier material, poor-quality junctions with walls and other structural components of the roof.

Important! The main task in the arrangement of the roof is to exclude or minimize the uncontrolled movement of air containing water vapor through the roof structures.

Varieties of materials

Today, we can choose not only high-quality vapor barrier materials, but also entire vapor barrier systems, which include special films, adhesive tapes and mastics, as well as ready-made technical solutions for the arrangement of the roof. The choice of characteristics and type of vapor barrier material is directly related to the design features of the attic room and its temperature and humidity conditions.

Below we provide a list of the most common vapor barrier systems with their pros and cons:

Single layer polyethylene films. The advantages include high vapor diffusion resistance (more than 100 m) with a small material thickness (200 microns), the ability to control the quality of insulation due to the transparency of the material, as well as good elongation at break. Among the minuses, it is worth mentioning the low strength of the material in the places of fixation with staples.
Polyethylene multilayer films with reinforcement. Pros: high strength and transparency. Cons: low resistance to vapor diffusion due to the thinness at the point of interweaving of the fibers of the reinforcing mesh. It should be noted that films weighing at least 200 g / m² are more often used.
Polymer films on a woven basis with lamination in one layer. The advantages include high strength. The disadvantage is the lack of transparency, low diffusion resistance due to the presence of a continuous thin polymer layer, as well as a small elongation at break.
Multilayer foil polyethylene film. The advantages include high density material and a relatively good coefficient of resistance to vapor diffusion, as well as additional heat preservation in the room due to the reflex layer. Self-adhesive tapes go along the edge of the material for a more hermetic laying. The only downside is the lack of transparency.
Polymer-bitumen rolled self-adhesive vapor barriers. They are quickly mounted, as they are simply glued to a solid base of concrete or OSB on a primer layer. Such products can be used on a sheer surface without additional gluing of overlaps.
OSB can be used as a vapor barrier, but this material is only suitable for places with normal humidity in buildings where wet Finishing work. Their sphere of use is prefabricated and frame structures. The junctions and overlaps must be additionally glued with tapes. OSBs are only suitable for roofs with simple geometries. Above wet rooms, it is required to lay a layer of film vapor barrier. This material is not suitable for use in timber and log houses due to high shrinkage.
The adaptive polyamide vapor barrier has a variable vapor permeability and is suitable only during the repair of areas with normal humidity. It is not used in new construction.

As you can see, the abundance of vapor barrier systems allows you to reliably protect roof structures from condensate. However, the effectiveness of any material is directly related to the correct choice of it, taking into account the temperature and humidity conditions of the room and the roof structure, the use of accessories for better layer tightness, as well as the use of the right technical solutions.

Seal