Roof with your own hands. Payment
The modern construction of houses draws a huge amount of money from their owners, and it is not so easy to hire really skilled workers, you can always get on a brigade of "Uzbeks" who will do everything wrong. A do-it-yourself roof of a house is a way out for those who do not forget that we are men and must solve such issues on their own (no one has canceled building a house, planting a tree and giving birth to a son), or, in extreme cases, in the company of best friends who are ready can I help you. Let's figure out how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, and do everything no worse than professional builders.
Roof types.
The first step in making the roof of a house with your own hands is choosing its type. And this is an important step, because the amount of work that will need to be done for its installation depends on the complexity of the roof structure.
Roof types:
- Shed - a simple, primitive design, more suitable for household buildings and garages;
- Gable - the most popular roof for classic private houses;
- Four-pitched (hip) - another classic, but more complex than a gable roof solution for a house;
- A sloping roof is an interesting design that looks original from the outside, but requires serious skills and professionalism during its installation;
- Combined - a roof containing several types of structures at once.
We discard the shed roof immediately, as an option for a private house - it is not very attractive in appearance, and has serious drawbacks during operation. The only plus of this type of roof is the small amount of time it takes to complete its installation.
A gable roof would be ideal for a do-it-yourself build, while a four-slope roof requires more preparation and skills, but this design is also available for non-professionals. The combined type is more suitable for the attic, where a combination of several types of roofs is needed.
Payment.
A start has been made, and we will focus on the most common option, a gable type of roof for a private house. The next step will be the calculation of the structure, and here we will take the classic sample as a basis (for each house, calculations must be carried out individually).
So, the classic parameters for a gable roof:
- Struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
- Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
- Runs - 200x200 mm;
- Racks - 100x150 or 150x150 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
- Puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
- Overlays from 32 to 50 mm thick.
Calculations are required for slanting legs and rafter work - for them it is required to select the width and height of the section. Parameters affecting calculations:
- span;
- Rafter pitch (calculated taking into account the convenience of laying the insulation (about 58 cm for mineral wool));
- roofing material;
- Snow region.
An accurate calculation is conveniently done using special calculators on the Internet. In the case of working with standard parameters, it is better to do everything with a small margin.
In the case of laying a layer of insulation, its size must be taken into account when calculating the height of the legs, where it should not protrude beyond the load-bearing beams. Plus, it is necessary to take into account the ventilation layer of 2-3 cm. In case of insufficient height of the rafters, you can solve the problem by installing a counter-rail.
Work order.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step production of the roof of a house usually follows the standard scheme:
- Measurements of the building frame (may differ from the design dimensions indicated by us);
- Preparation of materials and tools. Wood processing with special solutions;
- Mauerlat installation;
- Installation of a ridge crossbar (only in case of design necessity);
- Installation of the roof frame;
- We put racks, puffs and struts, thus strengthening the roof;
- Waterproofing;
- crate;
- Correct calculation of ventilation;
- Installation of droppers;
- Covering installation (roofing).
Mauerlat installation.
High-quality installation of the Mauerlat is the key to the reliability and durability of the future roof. With a wooden roof, an additional Mauerlat is not required, since the upper part of the walls will play its role. Fastening in this case is carried out by cutting the upper wall trim (attached to the racks of the wall frame using metal corners), and then attaching the roof to it.
When installing a brick (concrete or concrete blocks) roof, it is necessary to erect a Mauerlat of a carefully calculated size. All calculations are carried out according to the expected loads on the supporting structures. Mauerlat is attached to the wall in four possible ways: using studs, wire, anchor bolts or brackets.
The most reliable and durable fastening will be the use of anchor bolts, which must be laid in a concrete belt along the edge of the wall. In the case of mounting the Mauerlat with brackets, they are installed using special wooden bars laid directly into the masonry. Studs and wire are considered not particularly reliable methods of mounting and fastening the Mauerlat, and with modern capabilities and building technologies, they are used in rare cases.
Installation of rafters (fastening to the Mauerlat).
If this is a wooden roof frame with wooden rafters, then they need to be mounted using special sliding elements that will allow the roof of the house to deform slightly over the years without violating the integrity of the structure.
But in houses made of bricks, rigid fastening of the rafters should be made. The scheme used can be either hanging or layered. The design itself can be done in two ways:
- Without tie-in;
- With inset.
With a notch, the rafters must be pre-cut at the required slope angle. The removal of the roof is done with the help of fillies, the overlap of which is at least one meter. Fixation rigidity is provided with staples, nails or self-tapping screws. It is even better to use special metal corners for fixing the rafters, which are attached to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws.
Without cutting, the rafters are mounted without the use of fillies, and the overlap is achieved by the beams themselves. This type of installation is simpler than the mortise version, and is ideal for do-it-yourself roof installation. Installation and rigid fixation of the rafters is achieved by the metal corners mentioned above.
Fixing rafters on the wall.
A prerequisite for a reliable roof is to secure its frame to the box of the building, which will prevent the roof from falling off due to wind. The most common and reliable method of fastening is fastening using a twist of two wires. They wrap around the leg, in the place where it rests on the Mauerlat. After that, the wire is attached directly to the wall using a ruff or anchor (preferred option).
In the case of a wooden house, installation and fastening is easy to do with the help of special brackets, which are quite capable of withstanding heavy loads.
Strengthening the roof system.
A reliable way to make a reliable roof frame is to reduce the span between the rafters. In order to do this, it is necessary to install struts and racks. The process is carried out only after a careful plan for their installation, so that they do not interfere with people and look harmonious in the overall interior.
The location of the struts, in a standard roof, is done at an angle of 60 or 45 degrees with respect to the horizontal plane. They are installed on sprengels and beams that are thrown between the walls.
The tightening is performed in order to prevent the divergence of the beams, which is important in the design with hanging beams. Puffs are attached to the sides of the rafters in the amount of two pieces. Installation of puffs is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails.
Crate.
This stage of the construction of the roof of the house with your own hands is the installation of waterproofing material. In this role, a moisture and windproof vapor diffuser membrane can be used, which is much more reliable than a classic film.
After that, the crate is already attached directly, the thickness of which depends on the selected roofing material. For bitumen tiles, a solid crate of boards with a thickness of 25-32 mm is suitable, for a metal roof - a sparse placement of boards with a thickness of 32 to 40 mm.
Roof ventilation.
Ventilation is designed to prevent fungal processes, the appearance of pelesin and the destruction of the roof structure. Ventilation is considered in the process of drawing up a plan for the roof structure.
Ventilation Factors:
- Air movement under the roof (the gap between the roofing material and the insulation should be 2-3 cm);
- Air outlet in the ridge area (special point aerators are installed);
- Air intake through the eaves (the eaves are filed using perforated spotlights or a sparse board).
Roofing and insulation.
The choice of material for the roof is an exclusively personal decision of everyone, and is made from personal preferences or economic considerations. The most modern materials are ondulin and shingles. When choosing bituminous tiles, the angle of inclination of the roof should not exceed 45 degrees.
The final stage of building a roof for a house with your own hands is the installation of insulation. The most common material is classic mineral wool, laid between the rafters. The calculation of the density of insulation is made taking into account the climatic features in which the private house is located.
We hope our tips will help you build a roof for your house with your own hands.
You can do the installation of a gable roof with your own hands, but you can’t do without an assistant
How to build a roof yourself? Let's figure it out! I will give a simple step-by-step instruction for assembling a gable roof, developed from personal installation experience at many sites. You will learn how to install a mauerlat, a bed, a gable, rafters, as well as how to install roofing materials.
What you need to know about a gable roof
There are 3 types of roofing systems in widespread use:
- lean-to,
- gable,
- four-slope.
| Illustration | Type |
| Shed. Despite the ease of erection, it is not functional enough, and can not be mounted on every object. | |
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Gable. Unlike a shed roof, a gable roof can be assembled on any building site. |
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Four-slope. Unnecessarily complex, both in planning and construction. |
A distinctive characteristic of gable roofs is the rafters spaced at the same distance from each other. For stability, the rafters are interconnected by transverse elements of the crate.
In this design, an attic space is formed between the hanging or layered rafters, which can be used as an attic or as an additional utility room.
In front and behind the slopes are gables associated with the facade of the building. Gables are made deaf or equipped with glazing and ventilation.
In accordance with the design features, gable roofs are divided into symmetrical, asymmetrical and broken.
| Illustration | Type |
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symmetrical- traditional designs in which the rafters are arranged in the form of an isosceles triangle. |
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With different slope angles- non-traditional solutions that are used due to the complex architecture of the building. |
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Gable (broken)- complex structures with a characteristic kink in the middle of each slope. |
Mandatory elements in the construction of gable roofs
The diagram shows commonly used options for roofing systems. They are all united by the fact that the mechanical load from the truss system is transferred to the Mauerlat and already through it to the load-bearing wall.
If the construction of a gable roof is carried out on small objects, such as a garage, a temporary house, a shed, etc., puffs can be installed not on the Mauerlat, but through the reinforcing belt - on the walls.
To make everything clear in the assembly instructions for the truss system, read the list of structural elements and their purpose.
| Illustration | Description |
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Mauerlat. A bar rigidly fixed to the load-bearing walls, which serves as a support for the rafter legs. It takes on the weight of the truss system and transfers the load to the load-bearing walls. For the manufacture of Mauerlat, hardwood is used, which is not prone to cracking. |
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Rafter legs. Diagonally located supports, which, together with the tightening, form truss trusses. On the rafter legs, the installation of the entire roofing pie is carried out. |
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Puff. A horizontal beam that connects the rafter legs at their bottom. Through the ends of the tightening, the load is transferred to the Mauerlat and to the load-bearing walls. |
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Rigel. Horizontal brace installed at the top of the roof truss. This part fastens adjacent rafter legs and is used as an attic ceiling. |
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Rack. A vertical beam that connects the run and the puff. To do this, the stand is fastened with one end exactly in the center of the tightening, and with the second - at the center of the run. |
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Run. A horizontal beam that is attached below the ridge beam. A run in the system is needed to connect the rafter legs in their upper part. |
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Sill. A horizontal beam, installed in the same way as a run, but in the lower part of the truss system - on a puff. Due to the lying position, the load from vertical struts and struts does not fall on the inner wall, but on the Mauerlat. |
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Strut. A diagonal brace that connects the base of the upright to the middle of the rafter leg. The brace provides additional rigidity of the roof truss on a roof with a large area or with a small angle of inclination of the slope. |
What to consider when calculating the roof
In accordance with SNiP 2.01.07-85, truss systems for low-rise buildings are calculated taking into account the following loads:
- The weight of the truss system;
- Weight of heat-insulating materials (if a warm roof is calculated);
- Roofing weight;
The most important parameters for calculating the truss system are snow and wind loads. If the total weight of the roof can be controlled by the selection of roofing materials, then the loads of wind and snow have to be adapted.
A large accumulation of snow on the slopes leads to breakage or collapse of the roof. To compensate for the load of snow, the correct angle of inclination of the rafters is selected. But too much slope - this is the reason for the failure of the roofing in strong winds.
The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof, taking into account snow and wind loads, is 30-45 °. With an increase in slope, we will get more intense convergence of snow, but at the same time, the wind load will increase.
The choice of the angle of inclination of the slope also depends on the floor area and on the desired dimensions of the attic space. The larger the area of the attic floor, the greater the angle of inclination of the roof. The ratio of these parameters is shown in the table.
If you plan to install an attic, you can use a sloping roof. The sloping gable roof with a mansard ensures intensive snow removal even with a slight inclination of the slope
Construction of a roof on a house of aerated concrete blocks
Step 1: prepare building materials
Let's find out how to make a gable roof using the following instructions as an example.
From lumber you will need:
- Boards 200 × 50 mm - for rafters;
- Boards 150 × 25 mm - for lathing;
- Bars 50 × 40 mm - for the counter-lattice.
Before building a truss system, we process the harvested lumber with antiseptic impregnations. We do this in advance, because it will not be easy to process an already finished design.
If the price of special antiseptic impregnations exceeds the planned budget, used engine oil can be used. Working off the surface of the lumber creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the boards from rotting.
Step 2: install the Mauerlat
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Structural Wall Alignment. The end of the wall along which we will lay the Mauerlat is imperfectly even. Therefore, we level the surface with a cement-sand mortar or masonry adhesive. |
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Laying waterproofing. On top of the dried solution we lay a strip of roofing material. So we exclude direct contact between wood and concrete. If there is no roofing material, the surface of the bearing wall can be coated with bituminous mastic or simply melted resin. |
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We lay the Mauerlat. Since the roof area will be small, we use not a beam, but a board 200 × 50 mm as a Mauerlat. We lay out the board flush with the outer edge of the wall. |
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We mark the Mauerlat for anchors. We make the markup so that the anchor is located at a distance of 15 cm from the place where the rafters are attached. We will use anchors with a length of 150 mm and a diameter of 12 mm. We immediately prepare the washers, as shown in the photo, so that the bolt presses the board. |
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We fix the Mauerlat. We drill the board through with a drill for wood at 12. Through the hole we pass into the wall with a drill at 12 and drill 150 mm deep. We drive anchors into the prepared holes. We twist the anchors so that the nut, through the washer, presses the board. |
Step 3: install the bed
This stage is performed in the same way as laying the Mauerlat, and therefore we use the same building materials and the same anchors. But there is a difference - if one longitudinal board was used as a Mauerlat, then we will use two boards stacked on top of each other as a bed.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Leveling the interior wall. To do this, we use a masonry mortar with which we fill the relief.
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Installation of waterproofing. We lay the roofing material in strips.
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Bed laying. Lay the boards so that their edge is flush with the edge of the wall. |
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Bed mount. We drill a hole through two boards to concrete. Then we drill concrete to the depth of the anchor with a drill. We drive the anchors into the drilled holes and press the bed to the wall surface. |
Step 4: Lay the Gable
The pediment can also be laid after the assembly of the rafters. But it is better to lay out the blocks in advance, as the finished rafters will interfere with the masonry work.
The laying of the pediment of aerated concrete blocks is carried out with the displacement of the next row relative to the previous one. For high quality masonry, we use only special glue.
In order for the pediment to be even, after laying each new row, we check the correct installation in the vertical and horizontal plane.
Step 5: install racks and girders
| Illustration | Stage description |
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We make the layout of the bed. In accordance with the design of the roofing system, we mark the location of the rafter legs on the bed. According to the location of the rafters, with an indent of 50 mm, we will install racks. |
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Installation of two extreme racks. We install extreme racks that will be adjacent to the gables. We make racks from a board 200 × 50 mm and fasten to the bed with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the racks on the bed with diagonal struts. |
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Run setup. We fasten the run with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. We check the level of the position of the run along the horizon. If the level is filled up, we eliminate the difference by sawing one of the racks or adjusting the mounting hardware in height. |
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Installing intermediate racks. We do this in the same way as we installed the extreme racks, but according to the corresponding marks on the bed. |
Step 6: Installing the rafters
| Illustration | Stage description |
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We transfer the boards to the installation site. We calculate the required number of boards and, one by one, raise them up. We lay out the boards brought upstairs with one end on the Mauerlat, and with the other end on the bed. As a result, there should be two boards near each rack. |
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Purlin alignment. We measure the distance from the edges of the run to the Mauerlats. Most likely, there will be a slight distortion. To align the run, temporarily fasten the diagonal struts, as in the photo. |
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We start the rafters on the run. On the run, close to the mark on which the rafter leg will lie, we fasten the bar. We pull the rafter beam to the bar with a clamp. |
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We make markup for the run and Mauerlat. With the help of a square, we mark the rafters in the part with which they will lie on the run and on the Mauerlat. To get the same markup for the cutout, you can make a template from thick cardboard. But the template can only be used if the rafters are the same in width. |
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Cutouts for the run and Mauerlat. By marking with a miter saw, we make cutouts. We apply the prepared board with one edge to the run, and with the other edge to the Mauerlat. We do the same work with an adjacent beam. |
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Trying on and cutting adjacent rafters. We bring the prepared rafters to the lines, join and mark, as in the photo. According to the markup, we cut adjacent boards so that there is an even joint between them. |
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Rafter fastening. We connect the rafters with perforated fastening hardware, and fix it on the Mauerlat and on the run. In the same way, we install the rafters from the side of the opposite pediment. |
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Landmark stretch. We mark the same distance on the rafters, for example, a meter from the ridge. According to the markup, we screw in the screws. We stretch a cord between opposite rafters, which will mark the edge of the rafter system. |
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Installation of intermediate rafters. Installation is carried out according to the previously made mark. Be sure to check the verticality of the rafters by level. |
After the rafters are assembled, we finish work with the gables. At this stage, we will make and install additional ones to give the masonry a finished look.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Gable marking. Along the line of the rafters, we mark the laying of aerated concrete blocks. |
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Block pruning. According to the markup, we cut down the protruding sections of the pediment. |
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Production of additional elements. From pieces of aerated concrete blocks, we cut out liners according to the size of the recesses at the end of the gable. We try on the made additional elements in place and, if necessary, correct them. |
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Laying additional elements. We make masonry glue and lay additional elements in the corresponding recesses. |
Step 7: Strengthening the rafters with puffs and braces
To make the roof more stable, we will install reinforcing elements - braces and puffs. We will make reinforcing elements from a board 200 × 50 mm and fix it on adjacent rafter legs, passing through the rack.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Template installation. Cut off a piece of board 200×50 mm, which we will use as a template. We fasten the template at the junction of the rack and the bed, as in the photo. |
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Puff mount. On the template, by level, we set a horizontal board. We fasten the leveled board along the edges to the rafters with bolts through through holes. In the center, we fasten the board with self-tapping screws to the rack. |
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Trimming the puff along the line of the rafters. From the end of the puff, mark the line of passage of the rafters. According to the markup, we cut the edge of the board. |
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Installing the remaining puffs. Following the example of the first puff, we collect and fasten subsequent puffs to the opposite gable. |
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Installation of crossbars. We make spacers from a 150 × 25 mm board, which we fasten close to the bottom of the run. We fasten the crossbars with self-tapping screws on the rafters and on the rack. |
Step 8: trimming (trimming) rafters
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Overhangs marking. The optimal length of the overhangs of the rafters is 50-60 cm. We measure this length along the bottom of the overhang from the wall. We apply a level to the mark and draw a vertical line along it. From the vertical line, we draw the shape of the overhang, taking into account the subsequent location of the cornice strip. |
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Trimming overhangs. According to the markup, we cut off the end of the rafter leg with a miter saw. We perform a similar operation on all rafter legs, along the perimeter of the roof. In the photo, the overhang of the truss system - the front cut should be vertical, and the bottom cut should be horizontal. |
Step 9: Installing the roofing pie
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Installation of frontal and cornice boards. In the front part of the overhang, in specially made cutouts, we lay boards 100 × 25 mm. We fasten the boards laid in the cutouts with two self-tapping screws to each rafter leg. |
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Remove the protective film from the drip. The protective film must be removed prior to installation. After installing the bar, it will be difficult to cope with this task. |
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Dropper installation. We fasten the drip bar to the roofing nails. We hammer nails along the upper edge of the dropper in increments of 30 cm. When hammering nails, we try not to push through the dropper so as not to damage the protective layer of the paintwork. |
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Installing plugs on rafters. We cut out the plugs from the board 150 × 25 mm and install them in the gap between the rafter legs. Plugs are needed so that the insulation from the mineral wool slabs does not slide down. |
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Preparing the dripper for membrane installation. Glue double-sided tape along the upper edge of the dropper. On this adhesive tape we will then fix the vapor-permeable membrane. |
| Lathing installation. Through the lined vapor-permeable membrane, we attach the bars to the rafters. On the bars with a step of 30 cm we install the transverse boards of the crate. | |
| Ridge waterproofing. At the level of the ridge, we push the membrane under the crate. After that, we tighten the bars of the crate with self-tapping screws. | |
| Trimming the sheathing at the ends of the slopes. We stretch the cord between the ridge and the frontal board at a distance of 50 cm from the gable. We make markings along the cord. Trim the edges with a miter saw. |
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| Strengthening the edge of the crate. Along the entire slope, the edge of the crate is hemmed with a bar. We fasten the bar on each board with two self-tapping screws. | |
| Installation of roofing material. We lay out the sheets of metal corrugated board and fasten them along the crate with self-tapping screws with press washers. |
Conclusion
Now you know how to make a gable roof at home with your own hands. The proposed instructions will be useful when building a country house or cottage. To learn even more on the topic, watch the video in this article. If you still have questions about the technology and need clarification, write about it in the comments.
Is it possible to equip a wooden roof with your own hands? How to build it, and how long it will be used - we will tell you later in the article.
Wooden roof construction
When both the walls and the roof of the building are made of the same material, the appearance of such a building is unique.
Wood is one of the oldest building materials that mankind began to use; it is not for nothing that one of the very first roofing was wooden. Thousands of years have passed since then, and people have not only not stopped actively using wood for roofing, on the contrary, in recent times, they have begun to use it more and more often. During this time, however, do-it-yourself wooden roofs have turned from the simplest and most inexpensive into rather costly and complex types of roofing. Only the assertion has not changed that the roofing, erected in accordance with modern requirements for roofing and using modern materials, will serve for tens (and sometimes hundreds) of years, and will make the house stand out with its original appearance.
For the arrangement of a wooden roof used:
- Shingles - a thin, uncalibrated board, chipped off from a whole tree trunk - alder, spruce or aspen.
- Tes - coniferous edged boards, on the edges of which a sample is sometimes made.
- Shingle - sawn small boards, with side joints (groove-thorn type).
- Shindel - an irregularly shaped board, small, chipped, sometimes it is called "wooden tile".
- Chips - the same boards as shingles, but shorter.
- Ploughshare - they resemble a shingle, but with more curved planks (pyramidal or in the form of a shoulder blade), the lower cut is sometimes figured.
It is important to consider that wooden roofs come only with slopes with a slope in the range from 18 to 90%. And the greater the slope, the longer the life of the roof, but also the greater the consumption of wood.
How to make a wooden roof with your own hands
A wooden roof with your own hands can be built from different types of wooden materials. At the same time, all these materials differ significantly, and most of them allow the use of several options for the roof truss structure.
There are the following types of wooden roofs: 3 variants of boarded roofing - lap, staggered, 2-layer overlap, shingle and chip roofs.
Shingled - one of the most difficult wooden roofs to build with your own hands - without sufficient experience in the construction of such roofs, you should not even try to mount it.
This coating is boards 40-70x10-15 cm, which are most often pricked by hand, and less often they are sawn.
The latter type of shingle has a rough surface that absorbs moisture well (more intense than chipped). The split shingle retains the entire structure of the wood fibers well.
At the shingle board, one of the longitudinal, longer sides is squeezed under a wedge with a thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm, and on the other side, the thickness of which is 1.0-1.2 cm, a groove is made with a wedge 1.0- 1.2 cm. At the beginning of the wedge, the width of the plank is 0.5 cm, and narrows towards the end to 0.3 mm.
Shingles are made from different types of wood - coniferous, aspen or oak. The shingle roofing is laid on top of the lathing, made of beams 4x4, 5x5 cm, poles or on a solid boardwalk.
The step of the elements of the crate is equal to 1/3 of the length of the shingle boards. In the shingle rows, the grooves are horizontally turned to one side, and the narrow part of the shingle board goes into the groove of the adjacent shingle.
The edge of each shingle from above, after laying in its place, is nailed to the crate.
For some types of wood materials, different nails are used: copper - for wooden elements made of cedar or larch, as they are most suitable for them in color, for all other types of wood - galvanized.
Shingles are placed on the roof of outbuildings, gables of any roof or gazebos - in 2 layers, on the roofs of residential buildings - in 3 rows, and very rarely, to increase reliability - in 4 layers.
Laying in layers of boards is carried out in such a way that each subsequent row covers 1/2 of the previous one - with 2 layers, 2/3 - with 3 layers, and ¾ - with 4 layers.
The upper part of the shingle, nailed to the lathing beams, is slightly touched, which reduces the thickness of the roofing. The rows are spaced apart, when the edge of the shingle of the row at the top fits to the middle of the shingle of the row below.
Concave roof joints (or grooves) are laid in the form of a fan, shingles for this from the narrow side are reduced to the bottom by the required angle so that the plank is trapezoidal.
Before installation, shingles undergo antiseptic treatment and, of course, impregnation with a fire-fighting compound (flame retardant).
Roofs from a shingle and plowshare are erected similarly to a shingle roof. The difference between both types of do-it-yourself roofing is the shorter elements - 20-40 cm, so under them you need to make the step of the crate bars smaller.
On the sidewalls of the elements of these types of roofing, there are no cutouts, cones or grooves, but they are placed end to end. However, the laying is not done tightly, there is a gap between the planks in horizontal rows - about 0.3-0.5 cm. This is done so that when the coating gets wet and swells, the roof does not warp.
Roofing tiles with such laying swell with increasing humidity, closing all openings and gaps. As the wood dries, it shrinks, again enlarging the gaps, which provide excellent ventilation of the attic space.
It is important to consider that the best wood for any wooden roof elements is larch. It has a high density, contains a lot of resin, does not rot, has a beautiful woody structure. And most importantly, it is quite cheap.
Roofing with shingles and shingles
The installation of roofing elements of the coating from wood chips and shingles is carried out with an overlap, in rows - both horizontally and vertically. Most often, such roofing is laid in 3 or 4 layers.
Laying of shingles is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of a shingled roof: a 3-layer roof - for 2/3 of the length of the shingles, and a 4-layer one - for 3/4. The boards in the rows overlap the adjacent ones by 2.5-3.0 cm. The next row is placed in such a way that in the horizontal plane the middle of the upper element closes the joint of the 2 lower ones.
All boards are fixed with a galvanized nail (size 7x0.15 cm). The ridge of the roof is sewn up with a plank corner.
Installation of chipped roofing - similar to the installation of roofing from shingles, but the length of the tiles is shorter: for shavings of 40 cm - 1 meter, 9-13 cm wide and no more than 0.5 cm thick. Chips are slightly smaller in size: length 40.0 -50.0 cm, width - 7.0-12 cm and thickness 0.3 cm.
Therefore, under the chips, a crate is needed with a smaller step of the bars than that of the shavings - after 15 cm, and for the shavings it can be 30 cm. Most often, for this type of roofing, a solid flooring is laid instead of a crate.
Drape and wood chips are one of the easiest coatings for arranging a wooden roof with your own hands, so you can build a crate for them from bars with a section of 4x4 cm.
plank roof
One of the simplest and cheapest in the construction of wooden roofs with your own hands from all other roofing wooden coverings is a plank roof. However, there is a downside - the service life of this roof is the shortest.
Previously, plank roof boards were hewn by hand, by splitting a whole tree trunk along the entire length. The fracture, at the same time, occurred along the wood fibers, which made it possible to preserve all the properties of the wood material. Therefore, such a roofing served for a hundred years and even more. Such longevity should not be expected from modern sawn boards, since the natural structure of wood is violated during sawing. After such treatment, it resists different weather worse.
Plank roofing is laid either longitudinally (elements are mounted parallel to the direction of the pitched plane) or transversely (boards are placed parallel to the ridge).
The cross-laying method is simple and only applies to temporary buildings. Tesa boards are laid from bottom to top directly on the logs, while any subsequent row covers the previous one by 5 cm. To each lag, the plank board is attached with one nail.
Longitudinal laying has 3 mounting options:
- end-to-end in 2 layers - the boards are placed with an offset of the upper row relative to the row below by half the board, with a distance (for drying) between the boards in rows of 0.5 cm;
- along the pitched plane staggered - a row of boards at the bottom is placed with a 0.5 cm gap between the boards, and the top row covers adjacent boards by 0.5 cm
- with the bottom row covered with a flashing - the rows of boards from the bottom of the roof are placed solid, and the gaps are closed with less wide boards, and also, the boards of the lower layer are overlapped by 5 cm.
In any of the 3 options for the longitudinal laying of the board, the top row of boards is nailed to the crate with 2 nails. The distance between the elements of the crate is 60-80 cm. The thickness of the boards is 1.9-2.5 cm, the bars are 6x6 cm.
Most often, steam and waterproofing is not placed under a wooden roof, since wooden structures do not form condensate in the attic due to reduced thermal conductivity, however, preventing free ventilation of the coating can quickly ruin it.
Importantly, for thousands of years, mankind has improved its skills in the construction of various types of roofs, and wooden roofs are popular, despite the emergence of new roofing materials.
More and more people are striving to realize their innermost dream - to get out of the high-rise urban development in their own home. Acquired suburban area quickly turns into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, the construction of a new home is very often carried out on their own. And, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, they are looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after the walls of the house are raised on a reliable foundation, it is necessary, without delaying this, to proceed to the creation of a roof and roofing flooring. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is a gable roof structure. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should cope with it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable truss system with
It should immediately be noted that the article does not give a ready-made "recipe". The goal is to demonstrate the principles of calculating a gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And a master with an appropriate estimate should already bring the recommendations received to his own, specific construction conditions.
General information about the design of gable roofs
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on the long walls of the house (along the cornice lines). From the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the line of cornices and along the pediment, the roofing is somewhat released outside, outside the building in plan, so that overhangs are formed that protect the walls from direct precipitation.
Most often, the slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located at different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered in this publication.
The height of the roof in the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their truss systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
According to the principle of structure, the truss systems of gable roofs can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the outer walls of the building and are interconnected in a ridge knot, then such a system is called a hanging system.
To give additional rigidity to such a design, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal puffs (contractions). Vertical racks supported by floor beams, or diagonally mounted struts can also be used.
- In the case when the design of the house assumes the presence of a main wall inside the building, a layered truss system is often used. The name speaks for itself - the legs "lean" on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bed laid along upper end of the capital internal walls. And, this wall can be located both in the center and offset from it. and for large buildings, two internal walls can also be used as supports. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of "hybrid" of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support on the central post in the ridge assembly, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal puffs between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, additional reinforcement elements are used. This is necessary to exclude the possibility of deflection of the beam or even its fracture under the action of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, it is static, due to the weight of the rafter system itself, lathing, roofing and its insulation, if it is provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come out on top. Therefore, they strive to provide the necessary number of support points for the rafter legs in order to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the truss system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered truss system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a bar rigidly fixed on the upper end of the outer walls of the building. It serves as a support and base for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lezhen. A bar attached to the internal partition of a building.
3 - Rack (another name is the headstock). Vertical support going from the bed to the ridge run.
4 - Skate run. A beam or board that connects the central posts and serves as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 - Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements, through which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
Prices for fasteners for rafters
fasteners for rafters
In hanging-type systems, reinforcement is made by installing horizontal puffs (pos. 7), which rigidly connect opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the Mauerlat level or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge knot (e is often also called a crossbar).
With a large length of rafters, it may also be necessary to use vertical racks (pos. 3) or diagonal struts (pos. 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (pos. 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the shown schemes are not a dogma at all. There are other designs of truss systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams that are extended beyond the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary
In the roofs of large houses, more complex schemes can be used. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal runs, which, in turn, are supported by vertical posts or struts. But it is hardly reasonable to take on the creation of such complex systems without having well-established experience in this area. Therefore, we confine ourselves to the construction of fairly simple gable roofs.
Carrying out calculations of the parameters of a gable roof
The construction of the truss system and the arrangement of the roof on its basis should always begin with the necessary calculations. What are the tasks involved?
- First of all, it is necessary to deal with the ratio "ridge height - steepness of the roof slopes."
- After that, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “clean” and full, that is, taking into account the planned cornice overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the estimated pitch from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected roof loads. Or, on the contrary, based on the available material, choose the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and a drawing of the truss system as accurately as possible, correctly position all its elements. According to the existing scheme, it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material is required for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slopes. This is necessary for the purchase of roofing material, hydro - and vapor barrier membranes, insulation, if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the lathing for the selected roofing.
To make it clearer during the presentation of the calculation procedure, the main quantities are schematically shown in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof in the ridge above the plane of the Mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
but- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
FROM- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the Mauerlat;
∆C- elongation of the rafter leg to form the planned cornice overhang;
W- installation step of the rafter legs.
Let's start with the above questions in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely related. AND tothem calculation can be approached from different angles, taking certain criteria as initial ones.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, something remotely reminiscent of the Gothic style of architecture. It is clear that with this approach, the height of the roof in the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. True, it should not be forgotten that such roofs experience maximum wind loads, due to their pronounced “sail”. But the snow on such slopes will practically not linger. So it is worth considering these two factors initially. Perhaps, for an area closed from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
Steep slopes and a high ridge are pronounced - snow does not linger on such a roof at all, but the effect of the wind becomes maximum But do not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be in arranging, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration to make the roof higher very often becomes the desire to have a functional attic space, up to equipping it with a full-fledged living room.
For an attic room, of course, a broken truss system is preferable. But if, nevertheless, a gable is planned, then a lot of space is eaten up by corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with a Mauerlat. It is necessary to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, and here there may be an acceptable solution. For example, the Mauerlat is not located at the level of the ceiling, as in the "classic" version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, even with a large steepness of the slopes, and without much complication of the design of the system, magnon can achieve very spacious attic rooms.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tile
By the way, it is this option that will be considered below, when the story goes about the installation of the truss system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, make a decision about the minimum angles of roof slope. This may be due to material saving structures, lack of usable attic space, local conditions such as very windy but not particularly snowy terrain.
True, with this approach, we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if it is planned to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a steepness angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already have one or another roofing, its characteristics should be correlated with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out. As a constant value - a constant, we have the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), based on the planned steepness of the slopes (angle but).
Sun \u003d 0.5 × D × tg a
It is clear that half the width of the building is taken to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating according to this ratio, the height difference between the heights of the ridge point and the Mauerlat plane is taken as the height. That is, the excess over the attic floor is far from always meant - this should be borne in mind.
The above formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator of the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
Roofing on a country house is a crucial moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take design and execution responsibly. The ability to install the roof on your own, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.
How to mount a roof with your own hands
The device of a reliable roofing system on a country house is the final chord of the cycle of measures for its construction. Then only the finishing work remains to achieve the realization of your dream.
Getting to the device of the roof on the house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.
- Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, which does not allow leaks.
- Thermal protection of the interior even at the lowest possible outdoor temperatures for this area.
- A harmonious arrangement of the shape and color scheme of the finishing coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.
Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials
A classic hipped metal roof can last up to 50 years 
A properly arranged multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite the large number of joints and junctions 
Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years 
Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but they last a very long time and look impressive and attractive. 
Soft tiles can cover the roof of any complexity
Is it possible to install a roof with your own hands
In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to learn how to perform the following operations using various sources.
- Display the structure of the roof of the house at the level of at least the draft design.
- Calculate the need for materials for the rafter system, roofing pie and topcoat.
- Determine the Mauerlat installation scheme in order to distribute the loads from the roof to the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the truss system.
- Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
- Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
- Evaluate the need to install additional metal fasteners for the roof frame.
- To study the purpose of the crate and counter-crate and the rules for their installation.
- Clearly represent the order of installation of the layers of the roofing pie of the insulated roof.
- Understand the principles of selection and location of the roof finish, as well as methods of its fastening.
- Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional elements of the roof and the procedure for their installation.
As you can see, this list is far from complete and requires a rather serious preliminary preparation on theoretical issues. Next, you need to take care of the tool for the production of work. His set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner of a country house.
But most importantly, you need to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing. We note at once that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see the working methods and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.
Video: gable roof - how to make it easy and simple
Stages of roof installation
The installation of the truss system begins with the attachment of a support device called a Mauerlat.
Mauerlat installation
In private suburban construction, the mauerlat is a bar made of coniferous wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.
- Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
- Formation of the base for fastening the elements of the truss system.
Thus, the mauerlat is the link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:
- linking with wire ties, pre-laid into the walls during their laying;
The wire can be immured into the wall during its laying or inserted into specially drilled holes later.
- fastening with studs to the armored belt, if such is provided for by the design of the house;
The studs are inserted and tied to the reinforcement cage before the concrete is poured.
- installation of a mauerlat with fixation to the wall with brackets using bookmarks made of wood laid during masonry.
If wooden inserts are laid in a brick wall during masonry, a Mauerlat can be attached to them using metal brackets
These are the main ways of attaching the supporting base to the walls of the house.
Installation of the truss system
For the manufacture of the roof frame, various materials are used:
- a bar made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions of 150x50 mm. For a small house, even a material with a section of 100x50 mm will be enough;
- wooden glued profiles in the form of an I-beam or a beam;
- metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension up to 150 mm;
- plastic profiles of various sections.
The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal need additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-prevention (for wood) surface treatment.
The truss system is mounted in several ways.
- Assembly directly at the installation site. The material is fed to the roof and already there, focusing on the place, the parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install the truss system is to assemble it on site.
- Assembly at the bottom on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful observance of all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first piece as a template. Upon completion of work, a set of rafter legs is supplied to the installation site and installed there. The trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and an upper puff. This configuration provides form stability and the weight of the products available for manual lifting.
If the roof trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
- Installation of a truss system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered at specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the request of the customer) installation is carried out by the contractor's personnel. To assemble the truss system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made perfectly accurately and with high quality.
Video: assembling rafters on the ground
Roofing pie device
The roofing cake is formed in the process of roof insulation. The question is natural - why is it necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house escapes through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for the insulation of the upper building will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof produces a lot of noise during rainfall, especially if it is made of metal profiles. The roofing cake, in addition to the function of insulation, successfully copes with noise absorption.
The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.
The roofing cake of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order.
vapor barrier
The purpose of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from the living quarters from entering the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing cake is a heater, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation array, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.
To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They are covered with microscopic holes that can pass moisture in only one direction. Therefore, when properly positioned relative to the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it.
The roofing cake begins to take shape with the installation of a vapor barrier
An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is to place them directly on top of the insulation. Such a device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But for this it is necessary to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.
The most popular are three-layer films made of polypropylene "Yutafol D Standard", "Yutafol D Silver" and "Yutafol D Special". For ease of installation, a colored strip is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. Flooring is made along the roof, starting from the bottom rows.
The release form of vapor barrier films is rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.
insulation
When a person hears the word "roof", he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is possible only if the right insulation material is selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to keep the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise, the general requirements for all types of this material are almost the same.
The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 23.02.2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of the structure, determined by regional coefficients, depending on climatic conditions. Using the data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.
According to the types of materials, the insulation is classified as follows.
- Expanded polystyrene - the made foam plastic which is let out in plates. It has a low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is laid, as a rule, in several layers with overlapping joints. Used for thermal insulation of flat roofs, its service life is determined by manufacturers at 50 years.
Styrofoam boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs.
- Polyurethane foam - gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attics. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has a long service life.
- Mineral wool. It is made from natural materials, does not burn, perfectly saves heat. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Mineral wool foil insulation has high thermal insulation properties due to the heat reflecting coating
- Glass wool. This is a kind of materials made from waste from the production of glass. Such a heater is not combustible, resistant to getting wet and does not support the vital activity of rodents.
In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are Knauf (glass wool plates) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.
Finnish-made Isover roll insulation is also popular. He appeared on the Russian market one of the first and still enjoys well-deserved authority. It is applied both to roofs, and to walls.
Waterproofing
Moisture can get into the insulation layer not only from the internal space, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even small defects in the laying of the finish coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on its inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not give a full guarantee against the ingress of moisture into the insulation, so it must also be removed.
To protect against these adverse events, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films are of the following types.
Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from the bottom up. We remind you of some rules for its installation:
- the amount of overlap during laying should be 15-20 cm, some manufacturers have decided to designate the size of the overlap with color marking;
- all connections must be fastened with special perforated tape;
- the waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters with the help of a counter rail up to 50 mm thick with the formation of a gap for ventilation.
For a cold roof, it is better to use a budget version of a universal or diffusion film. Suitable brands such as "Yutafol D", "Izospan D", "Folder D" and others. You can buy more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.
For an insulated roof or attic, you can use a universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with a mandatory ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be laid on any roof and with any type of insulation. Popular brands are "Folder", "Tyvek", "Yutavek", "Light", "Delta", "Vent" and others.
Finishing coatings for roofing
A variety of materials are used to cover roofs. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.
- Tightness, providing complete protection of the interior from moisture and water in any of its manifestations.
- Quietness that protects the living space from sounds coming from the roof during heavy rainfall.
- Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) allow you to increase this period to hundreds of years or more.
- The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
- The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.
In private housing construction, metal roofing is quite popular.
- Decking. It is made of galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick by profiling, coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, a paintwork or plastic coating is applied to the surface, which increases the service life and appearance of the products.
- Metal tile. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always supplied with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
- Fake roof. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
- Coatings from non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. They can be shaped like shingles or come in the form of flat sheets for seam roofs.
Photo gallery: varieties of metal roofing materials
A beautiful and durable roof for a building of any type is obtained from a metal tile. 
The roof of the house from corrugated board will be reliable, durable and inexpensive 
With the correct arrangement of the connecting seam, the seam roof lasts for several decades 
Roofing made of copper tiles is difficult to fit, but it looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years.
Other roofing materials are also used.
- Asbestos slate - not so long ago, he was the leader in the list of roofing materials. Recently, its positions have been pushed back by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material.
- Tiles are ceramic, molded from certain types of clay and fired in kilns. The material has high strength and is easy to install due to its small size. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, requiring a fairly solid foundation. Service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
- Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic counterparts and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be dyed in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. A clear disadvantage of such material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and serve for a long time, but require a powerful truss system due to the large weight
- Roof coverings made of composite materials, such as Shinglas tiles or ondulin, are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. In the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this topcoat is its low weight. The service life is determined at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
- For low-pitched and flat roofs, welded roofing from rolled materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture are polymer meshes or fiberglass. For installation, the lower surface of the web is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. The top layer is covered with a topping of granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of rolled materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Welded roll materials are usually used for flat and low pitched roofs.
- Liquid roofs - are made from molten bitumen or liquid rubber-type compounds by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The layer thickness should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams and joints.
The self-leveling roof is a continuous sealed roofing carpet
From among the purely natural materials for the finishing coating of roofs, one can distinguish such as shale, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.
Features of installation of various types and roof units
The roof covering must have a number of important characteristics, which were mentioned above:
- tightness;
- sufficient strength;
- UV resistance;
- compliance with climatic conditions.
Flexible roof device
These conditions are fully met by flexible tiles, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before laying shingles on the crate, geotextiles must be laid to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any form of roofing.
The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0x0.33 m, it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. The outer surface is covered with a protective layer of various types of crumbs, which gives it immunity to ultraviolet radiation.
Video: installation of shingles
Hard roof device
Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:
- corrugated board;
- metal tile;
- slate;
- sheet coating in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.
The installation process of the finish coating may look like this.
- Overhang formation. To do this, fillies (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, the cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
- Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at a right angle to the rafters in the direction from the bottom up and fixed with counter-latticing bars.
- Lathing installation. It is laid from a board 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the crate is made sparse. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge, it is continuous.
Under hard coatings, the crate is sparse everywhere, except for the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge and valleys
- Finishing coat. It is made from any corner of the roof also in the direction from the bottom up. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance, it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, shelter is performed with the first row until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. Coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Installation of ridge slats and design of overhangs.
For filing cornice overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal spotlights with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space
Each coating has its own mounting methods and appropriate fasteners. Additional elements of the roof are installed during installation.
Video: do-it-yourself metal profile installation
Installation of a cold roof
Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small and the heating season is short. This performs the following operations.
Installation of roofing accessories
Roof accessories include the following products.
- Snow guards. They are fences in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous descent of snow masses, as a result of which injury to people is possible. Snow guards are attached to the roof finish on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow from falling off the roof in winter
- Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed on the ridge (pitched part). They are used when inspecting the roof, performing current repairs, as well as for servicing chimneys.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to and from the roof.
- Roof skates. They are included in the package of delivery of the finishing coating, designed for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
- Roof walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roof walkways ensure safe work at heights
- Roof railings. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are intended to prevent people from falling during work on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses with two floors and above.
Roof gutters
Gutters are an important component of the roof structure, as their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensate. They are installed between water intake funnels.
There are two ways to install gutters.
- Hanging gutters are mounted on top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
- Wall-mounted mounted on brackets attached to the wall.
Work on the installation of gutters is carried out after the completion of the design of overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, the gutters work equally well on roofs with any slope angle.
Video: installing gutters
Typical mistakes when installing a roof
Inexperienced builders often make mistakes that can later lead to significant costs.
- The absence of an armored belt over the walls of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening of foam concrete and the impact of concentrated loads from the truss system, the wall is destroyed at the reference points, the roof warps with a violation of the tightness of the coating.
- Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. As a result of the impact of wind loads, the roof structure can be shifted or carried away at extreme values of the impact. Violated the requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 31.02.2001.
- Incorrect arrangement or lack of ventilation ducts. Ventilation is necessary for rooms with high air humidity - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, the development of fungal and putrefactive formations that contribute to the destruction of the supporting structures of the house is possible. In addition, it negatively affects the health of residents.
- Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the Mauerlat due to the lack of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, there is an uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire truss system. There is a violation of paragraphs 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25-80. The consequences are the displacement of the rafter legs and the destruction of the roof completely.
- No rafters. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in roof trusses. In the absence of puffs, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.
This list can be continued for a long time. It is necessary to understand one circumstance - it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the agreed and approved project.
When planning work on arranging the roof, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.
- Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
- Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
- For the first time after installation, at least once a month, inspect the roof surface for damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This is especially true for poured and built-up roofs.
In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs constant attention, as well as a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.
In principle, there is nothing super complicated in installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing work and clearly understand the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start right, that is, to create a draft design. After that, it is necessary to show it to a specialist designer and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that self-manufacturing of the roof does not mean doing all the work alone.
