Methods and features of attic insulation. Warming the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered - the nuances of the process and the choice of thermal insulation material Warming the second floor under the roof with your own hands

If the attic remains non-residential, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with floor insulation). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create conditions for the entire roofing system to serve for a long time.

Let's say right away that all the wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: both battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with flame retardants. All elements that are located on the side of the street are treated with compounds for outdoor work. Treat all wooden parts facing the inside of the room with impregnations for interior work. If you use the composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If on the contrary, the wood outside may suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. So don't skimp on this.

Yet. Before describing how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this, special ventilation holes are arranged on the skate. Through them, the air from under the roofing material escapes, carrying away excess moisture. And it must fall under the roofing through the overhangs. There absolutely can not be done all hermetically. That's where the air comes from. Only in this way will the condensate dry out in a timely manner and the roof will serve for a long time.

Proper attic insulation

In order for the attic floor to be warm in winter and cool in summer, there are no problems with high humidity, icicles do not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, vapor and waterproofing are a complex solution, and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is at the same time the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• internal lining (drywall or lining);
• crate;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for central Russia it is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• crate;
• roofing.

The photo shows the insulation of a broken mansard roof in a graphical version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is laid over the insulation (indicated in blue). Its purpose is to prevent condensate formed or precipitation seeping through the roofing from entering the insulation and removing the steam that nevertheless got into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with a vapor permeability of 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (as it is, in fact, it is), only waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it fits exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and closely fitting on the insulation. Often, to save money, they roll it out over the rafters, but without pulling it, but making it sag by 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets on the surface, and then rolls down and out of the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must go into the gutter. Then the moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row is launched into the gutter. The next one is rolled out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. On the ridge, the membranes are cut off on both sides along the upper edge and fixed. A strip rolls along the ridge, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating through which water flows down to the gutter itself.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about the vapor barrier. It must also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be as low as possible. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it generally crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with the entry of one panel onto another. Moreover, these joints are glued with a special double-sided vapor-tight tape (it looks like sticky rubber). Ordinary painting or stationery will not work. They do not provide 100% vapor protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

A line is drawn on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer starts (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with adhesive tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the lags with stapler brackets or, as in the figure, with planks of the inner crate for mounting the skin. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry the finish and the membrane. This clearance is desirable but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

thermal insulation

The better to insulate a sloping roof - the question is complex and there is no unambiguous answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the mansard roof usually has a large angle of inclination, soft materials can slip. It is for this reason that it is better to take plates. Although in this case it will be necessary to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes “spread” between the beams and holds well.

It is necessary to lay thermal insulation in such a way that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, usually 200-250 mm of mineral wool is required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between the rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the plate becomes dense, excluding the presence of cracks. If the width is more/less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter do not allow laying the entire insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across from the side of the room. Between them lay the remnants of insulation. From above, a vapor barrier is already attached to it and, if necessary, a crate for finishing. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely excluded, blocking even the rafters. This method requires a little more installation costs, but it will definitely be warmer in the attic, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate a mansard roof: the order of work

The device of the attic floor is good because it allows you to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to lay and fix the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, the crate and roofing material on it. And attic insulation can be done from the inside after a while.

But pay attention: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not lay this membrane. As a result, either it is necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this shortcoming. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal state of the materials.

We warm outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

With this option, it is not difficult to work with a heater: it is easy to lay it, it relies on a crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the interior decoration for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the truss system, here's what you need to do:

• roll out and fix the waterproofing;
• stuff the crate (if necessary, a counter-crate);
• install roofing material.

For the first stage, this is all the necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make a building envelope that will not allow you to push the insulation higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed in some way: it strives to fall on the head. The order of work is as follows:

A few notes on how you can lay the heat-insulating material. If these are high-density mineral wool mats and their width is a little more than the step between the joists, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is laid, everything is more complicated. Making the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, it is laid from the bottom up. Take a string, a construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it against the planks, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you fix the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the mansard roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are caked, settling down, the thermal insulation of the mansard roof deteriorates.

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. It is good, but not at all ideal: it is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Sheathe the roof with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polyfoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned, it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing grades (with special additives). Here they are better for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polyfoam: low price. It is mounted simply: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with mounting foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order the plates of the right size - 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to the elasticity, they hold very well.

From the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But it protects more a wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it itself, it does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not let the vapor through, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is an additional cost.

XPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene. It also has a system of locks, which reduces the risk of cracks, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not multiply on it. What limits its use: a solid price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Ekstrol, STEREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Styrofoam), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increases in size many times, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is perhaps the only way today to correct the situation and insulate the attic with high quality, if during the installation of the roofing they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ecowool

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition is poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, sheet material (fiberboard, GVL, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and from above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool comes out under pressure. It fills all the cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Some time ago, I completed an order for attic insulation for winter living. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used is quite simple and even an unprepared person can make thermal insulation with their own hands from the inside.

In today's material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. This guide will help you avoid the same mistakes that I had to make in the beginning of my career as a builder.

I assure you that at the end of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from a useless trash storage into a cozy and comfortable room, for which all your household members will fight to live.

Features and methods of insulation of the attic room

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that this is a must, even if you are not going to live in a house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is very warm by the sun in the summer, so without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living quarters and think that you know how to insulate the attic, I have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I simply have to mention:

1. The geometry of the attic room follows the contours of a pitched roof, therefore it is far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. Insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with great care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
2. The roof truss system and roofing are always made of lightweight materials so as not to exert a large load on the load-bearing walls of the house. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh as much as to only slightly weight the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse with a significant snow load.
3. In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not perform thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

1. Roofing material, no matter how reliable it may be, can pass atmospheric moisture, which, in turn, can damage the insulation layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
2. When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the upper part of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or poorly flammable heaters. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof truss system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
3. And last but not least, environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of the conditions of its operation - heating, moistening, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

1. Insulation of attic walls. This method is resorted to in the case when the roof slopes are not the walls of the attic. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
   The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. Minus - a decrease in the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

1. Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in the truss system, after which it is possible to divide the spacious attic with the help of thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional pantry in the attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Choice of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic room from the inside. To do this, you can use expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that domestic and foreign industries offer to purchase.

But I am insulating the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements for the heat-insulating layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that has got inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the operational properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not prevent air infiltration, normalizing the humidity in the attic and extending the life of wooden parts.
Incombustibility	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and contributes to the extinction of the flame, giving time for the evacuation of people or the elimination of the source of ignition.

I could talk about the advantages of mineral wool for a long time, but this is not the topic of today's article. Therefore, he simply noted the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats 10 cm thick, 120 by 60 cm in size. It is not advisable to buy a denser material, since it will not experience load between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, namely, this is the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

1. Wooden bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
2. Super diffuse vapor permeable hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are of especially high quality from Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
3. Penofol. A thermal reflective material that I'm going to use in place of the standard vapor barrier film that keeps the mineral wool from getting wet from inside the room.

1. Antiseptic primer. She needs to process the roof trusses to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
2. OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the crate, on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then a solid crate may not be needed.
3. Polyurethane mounting foam. Useful for sealing joints between mineral mats.
4. U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized lathing. For me, they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of warming can be conditionally divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to do the work correctly with my own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing the roofing. Only in this way can the insulating layer be reliably protected from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into it.

I must say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I am describing was installed. However, the roofing material and the crate on it have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

1. I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving up. The membrane is fixed with staples and a construction stapler or wide-head nails. It is necessary to install the film not tight, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter), so that when the air temperature decreases, it does not tear.

1. I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane must overlap the edge of the lower one by 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

1. I seal the seams of the membrane. For this, adhesive tape is used. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
2. I install a control panel. Its role is played by wooden bars, which are fixed with self-tapping screws over the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. Previously, I recommend impregnating them with an antiseptic and flame retardant in order to extend the life of the roof structure.
3. I fix the boards of the additional crate. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-bar. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

1. I install OSB base plates. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here it is necessary to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

1. Installing a flexible roof To do this, a lining carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed on it.

If you are insulating the attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two disadvantages:

• the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
• waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof trusses.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roofing sheathing. Thus, peculiar baths are formed, in which insulating material will be invested.

But before that, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the truss system

The space under the roof, namely the truss system, is being prepared for thermal insulation:

1. I clean wooden parts from dust and debris, remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings left after the installation of the roofing material. You should also check if the sharp ends of screws, nails, and so on do not stick out from somewhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

1. I install engineering communications and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as the electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic room:
   • Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in the non-insulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated with mineral wool or foam shells.
   • For a chimney, a box should be designed to pass through the attic floor and roof. They must be filled with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
   • Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts that will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from igniting in the event of a short circuit.

1. I prime wooden surfaces. For work, it is better to use a universal composition that has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, the composition for wood BS-13 or Fire protection Strazh-2. It must be applied to wooden parts with a roller or sprayer, after processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

1. I install U-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafters. It is not necessary to use them, since with the correct installation of the rafters, the mineral mats become tight by surprise. But I'm used to playing it safe, and their acquisition does not hit hard on the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

1. I do cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces with a sharp knife or saw with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

1. I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to slightly bend the material in the middle, and then insert the insulation in the right place. Having straightened, the basalt mat will take its place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

1. I fix the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated tapes that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
2. I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane mounting foam. Gaps must be filled with a gun. Moreover, act in such a way that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are apart. And cold bridges can not be feared at all, although it is still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finishing coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic room is carried out as follows:

1. I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, penofol will serve me for this - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
   • The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living quarters, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
   • The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that between the individual elements there is an overlap of 10 cm.
   • The joints of the penofol are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make sure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
   • If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the tree, then penofol must be laid on the surface of mineral wool, fixing it on the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

1. I mount the bars of the control battens for arranging the ventilation gap. It is necessary to fasten the planks with self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam. These details create a gap between the finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

1. Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice with self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, with the exception of some small nuances:
   • It is necessary to install the sheets so that at the edges (at the gables and the floor) there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick. It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
   • The seams between adjacent slabs should be staggered (staggered) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
   • It is necessary to fix the plates so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter-lattice. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the plates. And we have ahead of the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Warming the gables

I strongly advise these parts of the attic to be insulated from the outside, using dense mineral wool for this, which can be covered with cement plaster on top. The scheme of work is as follows:

1. Preparing the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from the remnants of mortar, debris, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
   • Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blown out with mounting foam.
   • Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for a brick or (not the one with which you processed the rafters), and then cover the pediments with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

1. I mount the start profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulation layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, then install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

1. I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • The surface of mineral wool is pre-reinforced with cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the slab with a spatula.

• A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the sheet surface is covered.
• The part is attached to the wall. at the same time, its lower end must be supported on a pre-installed starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
• Behind the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to follow the verticals, and that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

1. I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones go sideways. That is, the seam of the upper row fell in the middle of the insulation sheet of the lower row (as in brickwork).
2. After the solution hardens, I fix the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
   • A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a perforator, the depth of which in brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
   • A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
   • Using a hammer, the core is hammered into the dowel so that its cap is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
   • It is not only mineral mats that need to be fixed. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the heat-insulating layer does not come off under load.

1. I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the joints, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the fibers of the insulation together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junctions of adjacent mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
2. I reinforce the surface of the insulation with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are covered with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the mortar with a plaster trowel. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
3. I do surface finishing. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered, after which it is decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the gable with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor ceiling, however, with such powerful insulation that I have described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to independently perform the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool at the lowest cost. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with which it is easy to perform thermal insulation of complex areas, including the Mauerlat in a heated attic. You can learn how to spray PPU yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions - ask them in the comments!

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Proper insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round, in addition, it helps to significantly save on heating and electricity costs for heating the building as a whole.

Attic insulation options depend on at what stage of house construction. In the article, we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the better it is to insulate the premises, and we will offer step-by-step instructions on how to do the attic insulation from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate the attic floor

How to properly insulate the floor on reinforced concrete floors

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab from debris and dust, close up cracks and irregularities with a cement-sand mortar. Next, we carry out waterproofing of the slab, by coating it with bituminous mastic for 2 layers, or by laying roofing material, the joints must be overlapped and hermetically glued with a blowtorch - this will protect the insulation from condensate.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Pore insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600 * 600 mm or more, from reinforcement with a cross section of up to 6 mm.

The fittings are poured with a cement screed, after which you can start finishing the floor, the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the logs

How to make floor insulation on a wooden floor

Before insulating the wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a refractory compound and antiseptics. Further, for insulation, logs are stuffed from a bar of 100 * 100 mm, in increments of 500-600 mm. The logs are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, a heater is laid very tightly between the beams, all gaps should be sealed with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always overlapping by 150 mm. On top, you can attach sheet material: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which the fine finish is laid, or cover it with a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate the ceiling in the attic

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose, in view of severe frosts, or this is required by features, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, we install a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell of 600 * 600 mm. Inside the crate we place a heater, mineral wool. The crate is sewn up with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can hem the ceiling with facing materials.

Crate for insulation of the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated with slab materials, then they are mounted on top of the crate. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the crate does not sag from the weight of the insulation.

What insulation to choose for the attic

The question of how best to insulate the attic from the inside is very acute, and see, reviews on the forums vary dramatically, each material has its undeniable advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Attic foam insulation is the most budget option to keep the heat in the room. To insulate the attic space, a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm is required. It is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, gets moldy, and besides, rodents use it to organize their moves throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has passed the test of time, the question of whether it is worth it to insulate the attic with foam plastic, the reviews differ from “by no means” to “only foam plastic”, remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which describe in detail how to perform attic insulation with foam plastic, the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, is performed outside the building. Despite the fact that many consider this material to be foam, their chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its thermal insulation characteristics during freezing and thawing. Expanded polystyrenes have different densities, the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation, the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, it is also deformed by ultraviolet rays, therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate the attic with your own hands with extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulation of the attic with penofol is financially costly, relative to polystyrene. This is a new roll insulation, which is a competitor for mineral wool. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. The huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying the heat-insulating layer, a violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the heat-insulating characteristics of the insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Thermal insulation, made by spraying polyurethane foam, has no joints, and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary preparation of the attic for thermal insulation, the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters and more. The insulation is sprayed directly on the walls, floor, ceiling with special equipment. PPU is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but it does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids.

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% of antiseptics and flame retardant additives. When using this material for attic insulation, it is necessary to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality attic insulation with ecowool, a layer about 200 mm thick should be applied. This is an eco-friendly insulation, lays on the surface like papier-mâché, manually or mechanically, does not form joints. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. The installation of a heat-insulating layer requires knowledge of the application technology and professional skills.

Warming with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to the surface

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep warm in the attic. Depending on the composition and density of wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in a special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this, its thermal insulation characteristics decrease, and the moisture-saturated insulation becomes noticeably heavier, which places significant loads on the rafters and the attic roof. When insulated with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left, it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on the design features of the structure. When working with mineral wool, wear a protective suit and goggles.

Attic insulation, video instruction on how to properly lay a heat-insulating layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to leave the old grandfather's and almost free way of warming. The device of a heat-insulating cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly way of warming, time-tested. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern heaters, in addition, it is a fire hazardous method of insulation. But if this is a country house, and according to the attic project, a cold unheated room, then this method of insulation is fully justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern heaters, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer

Now the market is represented by a huge selection of insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is best for the attic depends on which room should be insulated: if it is a warm attic, then basalt wool, polyurethane foam, and if cold - foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing a heater is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that universal heaters cannot be in principle, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We tried to find the most useful tips for you on how to insulate the attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of the thermal insulation device with each specific material.

The subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to properly install insulation?

Thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, a large role in the effectiveness of insulation is played by how correctly the material was laid.

• The material should be laid in two layers, where the second overlaps the seams and joints of the first.
• The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the plates of the second layer will get bends, which leads to a loss of joint density.
• The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between the rafter legs. So the plates will lie flat, with full adjacency, the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will turn out to be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

With the insulation of the attic with slab materials, there are usually no problems - they stand between the slats of the counter-batten by surprise. Roll types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate the attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and a synthetic cord:

• We fill small nails along the edges of the rails of the counter-batten.
• The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
• The material is inserted into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one rail to another.

We work like this until we finish the insulation of the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If the internal walls of a residential attic under a sloping roof are made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside, you have another task: the placement of insulating material. You do not need to do this directly along the bevels of the roof. The insulation is placed on the shields that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, on the reverse side, the shields are hemmed with scraps of boards. Wall insulation from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is performed in this way.

Is it possible to replace the steam protection of the floor with moisture protection?

Usually, the attic floor insulation cake in the country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of ​​installing moisture protection instead of vapor protection seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The heater works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation performance decreases with increasing humidity levels.

If we fill the floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When moisture protection is on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no way out for moisture. We get: the lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold under it.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulation of the attic floor from the inside is never complete without the installation of vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

• Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
• The positioning of ordinary fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - with the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side - into the room.
• Installation of any vapor barrier cloths is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the bevels of the roof and along the gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation pie be?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on how you are going to insulate the attic from the inside:

• Bituminous tiles, rolled materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
• Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, we leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes during attic insulation with polystyrene foam?

• You can not use dowel-mushrooms during the insulation of the attic with foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but the multiple cold bridges resulting from the process increase heat loss.
• When thinking about how to insulate the attic with foam, remember that this material is not suitable for wooden surfaces.
• The use of mounting foam to fill gaps between foam boards should be avoided. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put together the cut parts - just fit them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag?

Many are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true of slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better already because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool, this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage of basalt insulation is the absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to stop at basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation turned out to be greater than the height of the crate?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the crate, in no case should it be crushed. The heat-preserving properties of the material directly depend on its density: the smaller it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the pediment of the attic without redoing the crate? Just increase its thickness by stuffing the slats of the desired section on top. They do the same with the bevels of the roof, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulation of the insulated attic floor?

When deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, we often doubt whether it is necessary to take care of the hydro and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this can be omitted. However, do not forget that warm air tends to rise up, and moisture also rises with it. That is, the floor of the last floor receives moisture from the whole house. Therefore, in the winter version of the attic, the insulation layers must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

The attic room can become a full-fledged part of the living space of the house, if it is properly insulated from the inside. This will not only increase the usable area, but also reduce the heat loss of the entire building.

To insulate the attic, you can invite specialists, or better, do it yourself, saving on the cost of work. The technology of work and video are given below.

Thermal insulation materials that are suitable for attic insulation

• Minvata (mineral basalt wool) in the form of slabs or mats is the most suitable material for thermal insulation of attics. It is fireproof, does not harm human health, has excellent insulating and soundproofing qualities;
• polyurethane foam is a viscous self-foaming composition that is sprayed onto the roof and walls of the attic and has good performance. Reviews about this heater are mostly positive. However, its use requires the involvement of specialists equipped with special equipment, therefore it is not suitable for self-insulation;
• Styrofoam belongs to the most affordable heat insulators, but for a residential attic it is not the best material, as it is toxic and fire hazardous;
• glass wool material is also available. It is resistant to fire, non-toxic, has good insulating properties. A significant drawback is the presence of glass impurities in it, which brings a lot of inconvenience during installation, so glass wool is not recommended for do-it-yourself insulation;
• Ecowool- insulation, consisting of cellulose and antiseptic; non-toxic and absolutely safe for humans. However, the use of ecowool requires the presence of special equipment;
• Material penoplex(improved polystyrene foam) is moisture and fire resistant, environmentally friendly, durable. Sold at an affordable price. Installation of penoplex is simple and takes a little time.

In addition, sometimes for warming, it is quite profitable and practical.

Preparatory stage

How and how to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside - possible options

An attic insulated in this way can become a full-fledged room at home, performing various functions. Do-it-yourself warming will not only save the family budget, but also give confidence in the quality of the work carried out.

You can learn about how to choose the type of insulation, properly mount it and other important stages of the attic insulation process from this video:

Heating your own home, especially in the cold season, is not very cheap. Moreover, its effectiveness falls if certain conditions are not met.

Many, wanting to make the house warmer, focus, for the most part, on its walls. This is unlikely to save you, you will still have to spend a lot on heating. Hot air will escape, rising up, under the roof.

Before spending money on heating and heating the roof, it must be insulated, taking into account the structure of the residential attic floor and all the features of its operation.

Let's say you don't plan on making a mansard roof habitable. However, in this case, thermal insulation is indispensable here. So that the rest of the house area does not suffer from heat loss due to the cold attic, it is necessary to insulate the entire attic floor, it is enough to make only the insulation of the attic floor.

Let's still consider with you the option when you still plan to equip the attic for winter living. But in this case, you can’t do without a properly insulated roof.

Dependence on climatic conditions

Mansard roof insulation materials and their possible uses largely depend on the region where you live. In SNIP you can see the average temperatures of your climate zone. In the event that the temperature in winter is not sky-high, then there will be no need to insulate "in Siberia". And, accordingly, vice versa. The lower the temperature in the region, the more seriously it is necessary to approach the issue of thermal insulation of the attic room.

Below is a list of parameters that must be considered when choosing a thermal insulation material:

• Materials used in the construction of walls
• Pediment (its thickness)
• climate zone
• Type of roof - mansard, pitched, etc.
• The existing load on the roof and floors

An insulated mansard roof needs high-quality thermal insulation materials that will perform their functions well. But you can make the insulation of the attic floor with the help of simple materials, such as expanded clay filler and even sawdust.

The choice of material for insulation of the attic floor

The most important criteria to take into account are:

• Service life declared by the manufacturer
• Thermal conductivity values ​​(they should be as low as possible)
• Indifference from insects, rodents and all kinds of fungi, but the material must be environmentally friendly and safe for you
• The incombustibility of materials is perhaps the most serious requirement for insulation, it cannot be neglected

You have to do quite a lot of work. After all, a residential attic needs insulation of roof slopes, ceilings, walls and floors. Otherwise, the insulation will turn into an unnecessary waste of money, and the result will not be achieved - the attic will remain uninhabitable in winter.

All of the above work is carried out from inside the attic room, and, of course, this will reduce the amount of living space.

To avoid a large loss of attic space, you should choose materials with a minimum thickness, but good thermal insulation qualities.

You should also find out the approximate weight of the material. After all, it will be necessary to calculate the final load on the rafters and beams. This is necessary to understand whether they will withstand, or additional strengthening of the roof structure will be required.

Some heaters require the construction of additional structures made of wood and chipboard, and this creates an additional load on the roof. Also keep in mind that some heaters without proper waterproofing can add weight.

Mounting methods. A plate of ordinary polystyrene is glued, or attached to the surface with screws. For mineral wool and bulk materials, the board frame described above is required.

Pay special attention to waterproofing. After all, rain and snow are in contact, first of all, with the roof, creating the danger of moisture penetrating inside.
Do not think that waterproofing will take you too much energy. After all, materials that are not afraid of moisture have long been invented. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are a prime example of this.

Heaters like mineral wool should be waterproofed with foil or film. When moisture gets in, this material will “gain weight”, turning into a wet lump. This is "cured" only by a replacement, which entails additional expenses.

Also keep in mind that a number of heat-insulating materials with a constant temperature difference lose their properties or are completely destroyed.

How to insulate the roof of the attic

The owner of the house can choose a heater for every taste and a pocket for arranging his attic. Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foam glass will perfectly cope with their direct duties, and you will not be left without pants.

Polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are leading in the list of budget heaters. You can buy it in plates of the required size.

This material for insulating a mansard roof is 90% air, and therefore their thermal conductivity tends to zero.

Styrofoam has one significant disadvantage - many of its modifications are flammable. But at the same time, the load on the roof will be minimal, the waterproofing qualities are at their best, and it is absolutely not susceptible to attacks by rodents and mold.

In order for the material to have no cons at all, purchase polystyrene foam, which contains an ingredient that makes this material non-combustible. The worst thing that can happen to him is smoldering, but it is unlikely to lead to a fire.

Mineral wool has excellent environmental performance, being practically harmless to you. Materials of this kind are the product of the processing of other things harmless to humans, such as rocks.

It does not burn, perfectly soundproofs the space, and the service life will pleasantly surprise you. But there are still disadvantages to this method of thermal insulation.

As already mentioned, mineral wool is able to absorb moisture and become unusable if it is not waterproofed with a film or foil. This leads to the loss of body-insulating and heat-conducting qualities.

During the installation of such material, be sure to protect yourself from getting the smallest particles of the material on the skin and mucous membranes. Work in a mask and gloves, do not allow gaps between the elements of clothing. If the installation technology is observed, glass wool can last up to half a century.

As we wrote above, if your mansard roof is not planned for living, then the process is greatly simplified, being reduced to thermal insulation of ceilings alone.

Stages of floor insulation:

• Installing a wooden frame
• We fall asleep in the intervals of expanded clay, sawdust, or we lay mineral wool
• We put the insulation in several layers - this is necessary to cover the frame of wooden slats
• We waterproof the thermal insulation with a film, or with the help of foil, both from below and from above
• We finish with the flooring of boards for the subsequent installation of flooring

With thermal insulation finished, now we have an additional room that can be used in the summer.

What to do if you plan to use the mansard roof for year-round living?

Thermal insulation in this case will be much more serious.

It will cover all the designs of the attic space:

• roof slopes
• gable structure
• floors

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic diagram

Insulation of the gable of the mansard roof can also be done outside the house. We suggest doing this with polystyrene foam. Installation of plates is carried out with the help of glue, and the design is reinforced with nails "umbrellas".

For further finishing of the insulated wall, we will apply plaster. Before applying the plaster, a special mesh should be used to strengthen the plaster.

Such thermal insulation of the mansard roof from the outside will not steal part of the usable area from you. The service life of this design will be measured in tens of years.

But let's get back to the question of how to insulate a mansard roof from the inside, since unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) it will not work to insulate the roof from the outside.

• First, we stretch the waterproofing material - this is necessary to protect our thermal insulation from moisture
• Preparing insulation - if you use rolled insulation, then it should be cut into pieces with an ordinary clerical knife
• We lay the insulation between the roof rafters, and in case of cracks, we seal them with adhesive tape or foam sealant
• We close the laid insulation with waterproofing (various types of films and foils)
• The last step is the cosmetic finish of the attic, on top of the thermal insulation material

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof is not a difficult process, but it requires strict adherence to instructions. Otherwise, moisture condensation on the surfaces of the attic awaits you when the temperature changes.

The presence of ventilation is very desirable in this case, because excess moisture can find a way out. A properly made waterproofing will not allow the insulation to absorb water.

Using insulation that is not exposed to moisture, you save yourself from additional work on the waterproofing device.

Nevertheless, ventilation is extremely important. Vapors will circulate, passing unhindered through ceilings and walls.

Do not forget about such an excellent insulation for a mansard roof as polyurethane foam. It is easily applied to the surface to be thermally insulated by spraying. When hardened, this material forms an almost perfect surface, without flaws. It will fill all the gaps and cracks. Moisture is absolutely not terrible for polyurethane foam, and therefore its service life will pleasantly surprise you. In the next 30-50 years, you will not have to remember about insulation!

Approach the process creatively, but wisely. The reward for your construction exploits will be a warm room under a mansard roof. And your caring hostess will turn it into a piece of paradise!

Do-it-yourself attic insulation video